US RE33,993 EGrant
Cosmetic Composition for the Treatment of the Hair and Skin Comprising a Powder of Flowers or Flower Tops and a Cohesion Agent
Issue Date:1992-07-14
•12 Claims
Abstract
A cosmetic composition for the treatment of the hair and skin comprising, in an aqueous medium, particles of pulverized flowers or flower tops having a granulometry lower than 125 microns and a cohesion agent present in an amount effective to maintain the homogeneity of the composition. The cohesion agent can be a thickening agent, a water-in-oil emulsion or an oil-in-water emulsion.
Metadata
Assignee
- Societe Anonyme dite: l'Oreal
Inventors
- Jean-Francois Grollier
- Josiane Allec
- Chantal Fourcadier
- Georges Rosenbaum
- Patrick Darmenton
Application Information
Application Number:US 6124380
Filing Date:1990-11-14
Priority Date:1981-02-27
Art Unit:123
Classifications
IPC:
A61K 706A61K 707A61K 748A61K 910
Field of Search:
42474;195.1
Patent Drawings
This patent does not have any drawings.
Description
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for the treatment of the hair and skin, this composition containing, in the presence of a cohesion agent, a powder resulting from the pulverization of at least one flower or of flower top.
For years both the pharmaceutical industry and the cosmetic industry have used in numerous formulations active substances resulting from the extraction of vegetables by different processes such as maceration, digestion, decoction, infusion or lixiviation.
In certain cases, and principally in cosmetics, the vegetables are employed in the form of entire plants applied to the skin, or in coarsely pulverized forms so as to provide cataplasms when diluted with water.
Representative cataplasms include, in particular, those obtained from emollient flour or from henna powder and were used for the coloration of the hair or the skin.
These cataplasms exhibit numerous disadvantages caused essentially by coarse grinding of the plants which most often resulted in lumpy cataplasms which were difficult to apply to the skin and hair and which were not easily removed, especially from the hair.
Moreover these known products were difficult to preserve which prevented them from being made in a ready-to-use form.
It has now been found that it is possible to significantly reduce or eliminate the disadvantages mentioned above by using finely pulverized flowers or flower tops having a determined granulometry in the presence of a cohesion agent.
The present invention thus relates to a cosmetic composition for the treatment of the hair and skin containing, in an aqueous medium, particles resulting from the pulverization of at least one flower or flower top, having a granulometry less than 125 microns and, preferably, less than 80 microns, in the presence of a cohesion agent which maintains homogeneity of the composition the said agent being a thickening substance and/or a water-in-oil or oil-in-water type emulsion.
The particularly fine granulometry is obtained by known pulverization processes, such as by crushing or micronization, optionally followed by a sieving operation, this degree of granulometry being critical to the production of compositions exhibiting all the requisite characteristics.
The crushing can be carried out dry on the flowers or flower tops, previously dried, or can be effected directly on fresh flowers in an appropriate medium.
By the expression "cohesion agent" is meant an agent capable:
of avoiding decantation of the finely pulverized particles of the flowers or flower tops, in solution,
of facilitating the spreading of the composition on the skin or the hair,
of avoiding the drying out of the composition when it is exposed to free air, and
of facilitating the removal of the composition from the hair or skin.
The particles of flowers or flower tops used in the composition according to the invention can come from many varities of plants, shrubs or trees and principally from the following:
In accordance with the present invention the quantity of flower or flower top particles must be present in the composition of the invention in a fashion to obtain good viscosity. This is generally obtained by using an amount greater than or equal to 5 weight percent, and preferably between 5 and 25 weight percent, this percentage being expressed as dry material.
The cohesion agent i.e. thickening agent or substance which can be present in an amount of 0.1 to 20 weight percent is selected from
(i) water soluble vegetable thickening agents such as gum arabic, karaya gum, gum tragacanth, guar gum, carob bean gum, tara gum, pectines, alginates, carraghenates, agar-agar, furcellaria, Starches, the water soluble portions of mucilagenous plants such as those of mullein (Verbascum spp), wild chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla), fenugreek, marsh mallow (Althaea officinalis), mallow (Malva spp), flax, lime (Tilia spp), psyllium, plantain, borge (Borago officinalis), star thistle (Centaurea calcitrapa), alder buck thorn (Thamnus frangula), common comfrey (Symphytum officinale), asparagus, senna and lichen;
(ii) cellulose derivatives such as methylcellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose and hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose;
(iii) synthetic polymers such as sodium polyacrylate, polyvinyl alcohol and carboxylic polymer derivatives of acrylic acid, such as the Carbopols.
The emulsion which can be of the oil-in-water or water-in-oil type constitutes a particularly preferred cohesion agent for the flower or flower top particles.
To constitute the oil phase of the emulsion, a large variety of products can be employed, such as:
(a) hydrocarbon oils including paraffin oil, Purcellin oil, perhydrosqualene and solutions of microcystalline wax in oils;
(b) animal oils such as whale oil, seal oil, menhaden oil, halibut liver oil, cod liver oil, tuna oil, tallow oil, beef oil, horse oil, sheep oil, mink oil, otter oil, and hog oil;
(c) vegetable oils such as almond oil, peanut oil, wheat germ oil, flax oil, apricot pit oil, walnut oil, palm oil, pistachio oil, sesame oil, poppy oil, pine oil, ricin oil, soy oil, avocado oil, safflower oil, coconut oil, hazelnut oil, olive oil, grape seed oil, turnsole oil, colza oil, cade oil, corn germ oil, peach stone oil, coffee oil, jojoba oil and the like;
(d) mineral oils having a initial distillation point at atmospheric pressure of about 250.degree. C. and a final distillation point in the order of 410.degree. C.;
(e) saturated esters such as isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristrates such as isopropyl myristate, butyl myristate and cetyl myristate, hexadecyl stearate, ethyl palmitate, triglycerides of octanoic and decanoic acids, and cetyl ricinoleate.
There can also, if desired, be added to the "oil" phase, silicone oils soluble in other oils such as dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane.
Further, in order to assist in the retention of the oils, waxes such as Cornauba wax, Candellila wax, beeswax, microcrystalline wax and ozokerite can be used.
The emulsifying agent in the water-in-oil emulsions or oil-in-water emulsions can be of the anionic, cationic or non-ionic type.
Representative anionic emulsifying agents include: alkali or alkaline earth soaps, such as for example, sodium stearate or calcium oleate, soaps of organic bases, salts of sulfate or sulfone derivatives, oxyethylenated or not, such as sodium lauryl sulfate.
Representative cationic emulsifiers include: quaternary ammonium salts such as, for example, benzalkonium chloride and cetyl pyridinium chloride.
Representative non-ionic emulsifying agents include in particular: aliphatic fatty alcohols, such as cetyl alcohol or stearyl alcohol or a mixture of the two, fatty alcohols or .alpha.-diols, oxyethylenated or polyglycerolated, such as oleic alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 10 moles of ethylene oxide, 2-octadecanediol polyglycerolated with 2 or 7 moles of glycidol, cyclic fatty alcohols, glycol esters of fatty acids, such as ethylene glycol stearate, mono- or di-stearates of glycerol, polyethyleneglycol esters of fatty acids, such as polyethylene glycol stearate, fatty esters of fatty acids of sorbitan, oxyethylenated or not, and sold under the tradename "Tweens" or "Spans" by Atlas, sucrose esters of fatty acids, esters of fatty acids with glucose derivatives, such as methylglucoside sesquistearate and methylglucoside sesquistearate polyoxyethylenated with 20 moles of ethylene oxide.
Generally, the water phase of the emulsions represent 20 to 95%, the oil phase 3 to 80% and the emulsifying agent 1 to 20%, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
The compositions according to the present invention can also contain various cosmetic adjuvants such as pH modifiers, perfumes, preservative agents, solvents, antioxidant agents, sequesterants or sun screens.
According to the preferred embodiment, the compositions of the present invention contain 0.05 to 5 percent by weight of a cationic derivative and/or a cationic polymer.
The cationic derivative is a fatty amine salt such as allkyl amine acetate, a quarternary ammonium salt such as chlorides or bromides of alkyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium, of alkyl trimethyl ammonium, of alkyl dimethyl hydroxyethyl ammonium, of dimethyl distearyl ammonium in which the alkyl radicals have, preferably, between 1 to 22 carbon atoms, a quaternary halide of gluconamide such as those described in U.S. Pat. No. 3,766,267, a quarternary halide of amide of mink oil such as those described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,012,398, a quaternary derivative of fatty halo-alkanoate of dialkylaminopropyl amide such as those described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,038,294, a quaternary ammonium derivative of the fatty acids of lanolin such as those described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,069,347, an alkylpridinum salt or an imidazoline derivative.
The cationic polymer is of the polyamine, polyaminoamide of quaternary polyammonium type, the amine or ammonium group being part of the polymer chain or being linked to it.
The cationic polymers, such as defined above, have a molecular weight between 500 and 3,000,000 and are more particularly described in the following French patents and patent applications: Nos. 2,077,143; 1,492,597; 2,162,025; 2,280,361; 2,252,840; 2,368,508; 1,583,363; 2,080,759; 2,190,330; 2,270,846; 2,316,271; 2,336,434; 2,198,434 and b 2,413,907, as well as in the following U.S. Pat. Nos.: 3,589,978; 4,031,307; 3,227,615; 2,961,347; 2,273,780; 2,375,853; 2,388,614; 2,454,547; 3,206,462; 2,261,002; 2,271,378; 3,874,870; 4,001,432; 3,929,990; 3,966,904; 4,005,193; 4,025,617; 4,025,627; 4,025,653; 4,026,945; 4,027,020; 4,185,087 and 4,131,576, incorporated herein by reference.
Representative preferred polymers include:
(1) The derivatives of cellulose ethers having quaternary ammonium groups such as those described in French Patent No. 1,492,597 and principally the polymers sold under the names JR, such as JR 125, JR 400, JR 30 M, and LR such as LR 400 and LR 30 M by Union Carbide; the cationic cellulose derivatives such as CELQUAT L 200 and CELQUAT L 60 sold by National Starch and described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,131,576;
(2) The cyclopolymers such as the homopolymer of dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride sold under the tradename "MERQUAT 100", having a molecular weight lower than 100,000 and the copolymer of dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride and acrylamide having a molecular weight greater than 500,000 and sold under the tradename "MERQUAT 550" by Merck.
These polymers are described in French patent No. 2,080,759 and its certificate of addition, No. 2,190,406; and
(3) silicone cationic polymers such as those described in European applications Nos. 17,121 and 17,122, in U.S. Pat. No. 4,185,087, Japanese patent application No. 80.66506 and Austrian No. 71.01171, or even those mentioned in CTFA directory under the name "AMODIMETHICONE", such as the product commercialized in admixture with other components under the name of cationic emulsion "DOW CORNING 929".
The compositions according to the present invention can also contain 0.005 to 5% by weight of an anionic polymer having sulfonic, carboxylic or phosphonic groups and principally those mentioned in French patent No. 78.07363.
When the compositions according to the present invention are used for the treatment of the skin, these compositions can be provided in the form of creams, milks, gels, make-up, masks for the skin, depilatory, deodorant or antiperspirant compositions, bath products or after shave balm.
When the compositions according to the invention are used for the treatment of the hair, they can be provided in the form of shampoos, hair dye products, hair rinse treating products for application before or after a shampoo, a dye, a bleach, a permanent wave composition or an uncurling composition.
These compositions that are employed for the treatment of the hair or skin can also be packaged in aerosol containers in the presence of a propellant gas.
The following non-limiting examples illustrate the present invention.
Example 1
This composition, having the appearance of a cream is applied to clean hair. After a contact period of 10 minutes, the hair is rinsed and is soft and shiny.
Example 2
This composition is applied to clean hair which is then rinsed after a contact time of 20 minutes. This treatment imparted softness to the hair.
Example 3
In this Example, the 20 g of the powder of acacia can be replaced by one of the following powders:
Example 4
The 8 g of the roselle powder can be replaced by one of the following powders:
The composition is applied to wet hair.
After a contact period of 15 minutes the hair is rinsed and is soft and shiny.
Example 5
This composition is applied to wet hair. After a contact period of 20 minutes, the hair is rinsed, then shampooed. The hair thus treated, is particularly soft and shiny.
Example 6
The resulting product has the appearance of a beige fluid milk and an unctuous feel.
The powder of the flowers of cornflower can be replaced by 5.0 g of the following powders having a granulometry .ltoreq.80 microns:
flowers of arnica (arnica montana),
flowers of apple tree (Pirus malus), or
flowers of gilower (Dianthus caryophyllus)-red.
Example 7
The resulting cream is thick, shiny and unctuous and has a khaki green color.
In this Example the 7.5 g of the powder of the flowers of mullein can be replaced by:
When the powder of the flowers of acacia is employed the cream is thick, has a dull light beige color and a very unctous feel.
When the powder of the flowers of common heather is employed the cream is thick, has a beigh-gray color, and is very smooth to the touch.
When the powder of the flowers of barbary fig is employed the cream is thick and has a dull light beige color.
Example 8
The resulting cream is thick and shiny, has a caramel color and is very smooth to the touch.
The powder of the flowers of lavender can be replaced by 5.0 g of the powder of the following flowers, the powder in each instance having a granulometry .ltoreq.80 microns:
the flowers of safflower (Carthamus tinctorius),
the flowers of honeysuckle (Lonicera spp), and
the flowers of bloodroot (Sanguinaria canadiensis).
Example 9
The resulting cream is thick and shiny, has a green-chestnut color and is very smooth to the touch.
The powder of the flowers of sweet orange tree can be replaced by the powder of the following flowers, the powder in each instance having a granulometry .ltoreq.80 microns:
the flowers of hops (Humulus lupulus),
the flowers of garden peony (Paeonia officinalis), or
the flowers of marigold (Tagetes spp).
Example 10
The resulting cream is thick and has a greenish light beige color.
The powder of the flowers of barbary fig can be replaced by the powder of the following flowers, the powder in each instance having a granulometry .ltoreq.125 microns:
the flowers of peach tree (Prunus persica),
the flowers of daisy (Bellis perennis), or
the flowers of live ever (Helicrysum arenarium).
Example 11
The product is a fluid gel having a deep chestnut color and being smooth to the touch.
Example 12
The resulting product is a fluid gel which has a greenish chestnut color and is shiny and very smooth to the touch.
Example 13
The resulting product is a deep green, shiny and homogeneous fluid milk.
Example 14
The resulting cream is thick and dull; it has a violet gray color and is creamy to the touch.
Example 15
The resulting gel is fluid and unctuous, and has a shiny bordeaux color. It is very smooth to the touch.
Example 16
The resulting cream has a light mustard color, a fine texture and a homogeneous appearance.
The powder of the flowers of elder can be replaced by 5 g of the flowers of tansy (Tanatecum vulgare) having a granulometry .ltoreq.125 microns. The resulting cream is medium beige and has a smooth and unctuous appearance and touch.
Example 17
The resulting cream is thick, beige and has an unctuous appearance and touch.
Example 18
The resulting cream is thick, has a khaki color and a homogeneous appearance.
Example 19
The resulting cream is fluid, has a rose-beige color and a homogeneous appearance.
Example 20
Example 21
Example 22
Example 23
Example 24
Example 25
Example 26
Example 27
Example 28
Example 29
Example 30
Example 31
Example 32
The resulting mask has a green color.
If in this Example, the mullein is replaced by red poppy, the resulting mask has an eggplant color.
Example 33
The resulting cream is thick and has a deep rose color. The cream has a very smooth and very unctuous appearance and texture.
Example 34
The resulting cream is thick and has a very shiny violet rose color as well as a very unctuous appearance.
Claims
What is claimed is:
1. A cosmetic composition for application to the hair or skin comprising, in an aqueous medium, particles of pulverized flowers or flower tops having a granulometry lower than 125 microns and a cohesion agent present in an amount effective to maintain the homogeneity of said composition, said cohesion agent being a thickening agent, or an emulsion selected from a water-in-oil or an oil-in-water emulsion, said particles resulting from the pulverization of flowers or flower tops selected from the group consisting of crocus, cyclamen, dahlia, field larkspur (Delphenium consolida), edelweiss, geranium, wall flower, swordlily, gypsophila, live ever, garden balsam, orrice, hyacinthe, jasmine, lavatera, .[.water.]. white lily, bindweed, lupin, Lion's mouth, mugget, daffodil, white water lily, gilower, orchid, snowdrops, petunia, phlox, garden peony, sweet pea, polygonum, pyrethrym, primrose, French rose, clover, tulip and violet said thickening agent being selected from the group consisting of gum arabic, karoya gum, gum tragacanth, guar gum, carob bean gum, tara gum, pectines, alginates, carraghenates, agar-agar, furcellaria, starches, the water soluble portions of mucilagenous plants selected from the group consisting of mullein, wild chamomile, fenugreek, marsh mallow, mallow, flax, limes, psyllium, plantain, borage, star thistle, alder buckthron, common comfrey, asparagus, senna and lichen, methyl cellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, sodium polyacrylate, polyvinyl alcohol and carboxylic polymer derivatives of acrylic acid, said particles being present in an amount of at least 5 percent by weight based on the total weight of said composition and said cohesion agent being present in an amount of 0.1 to 20 weight percent of said composition.
2. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 wherein said cohesion agent is a thickening agent.
3. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 wherein said particles of pulverized flower or flower tops have a granulometry lower than 80 microns.
4. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 wherein said particles are present in an amount of 5 to 25 percent by weight based on the total weight of said composition.
5. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 wherein said cohesion agent is an emulsion wherein said emulsion comprises 20 to 95% water phase, 3 to 80% oil phase and 1 to 20% emulsifying agent said percentages being expressed relative to the total weight of said composition.
6. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 which also includes 0.05 to 5 percent by weight based on the total weight of the composition of a cationic derivative selected from an alkyl amine acetate, a chloride or bromide of alkyl dimethyl hydroxyethylammonium, or of dimethyl stearyl ammonium, of quaternary halide of gluconamide, a quaternary halide of mink oil, a quarternary derivative of fatty haloalkanoate of dialkylaminopropyl amide, a quaternary ammonium derivative of the fatty acids of lanolin, an alkyl pyridinium salt or an imidazoline derivative.
7. A cosmetic composition for application to the hair or skin comprising, in an aqueous medium, particles of pulverized flowers or flower tops having a granulometry lower than 125 microns and a cohesion agent present in an amount effective to maintain the homogeniety of said composition, said cohesion agent being a thickening agent or an emulsion selected from a water-in-oil or an oil-in-water emulsion, said particles resulting from the pulverization of flowers or flower tops of plants, trees or shrubs selected from the group consisting of mullein, common heather, chamomile, safflower, fumitory, hops, lavender, marigold (Calandula officinalis), saffron, bloodroot, soapwort, marigold (Tagetes spp), garden thyme, and said thickening agent being selected from the group consisting of gum arabic, karaya gum, gum tragacanth, guar gum, carob bean gum, tara gum, pectines, alginates, carraghenates, agar-agar, furcellaria, starches, the water soluble portions of mucilaginous plants selected from the groups consisting of mullein, wild chamomile, fenugreek, marsh mallow, mallow, flax, lime, psyllium, plantain, borage, star thistle, alder buckthorn, common comfrey, asparagus, senna and lichen, methylcellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, sodium polyacrylate, polyacrylate, polyvinyl alcohol and carboxylic polymer derivatives of acrylic acid, said particles being present in an amount of at least 5 percent by weight based on the total weight of said composition and said cohesion agent being present in an amount of 0.1 to 20 weight percent of said composition.
8. The cosmetic composition of claim 7 wherein said cohesion agent is a thickening agent.
9. The cosmetic composition of claim 7 wherein said particles of pulverized flowers or flower tops have a granulometry lower than 80 microns.
10. The cosmetic composition of claim 7 wherein said particles are present in an amount of 5 to 25 percent by weight based on the total weight of said composition.
11. The cosmetic composition of claim 7 wherein said cohesion agent is an emulsion wherein said emulsion comprises 20 to 95% water phase, 3 to 80% oil phase and 1 to 20% emulsifying agent, said percentages being expressed relative to the total weight of said composition.
12. The cosmetic composition of claim 7 which also includes 0.05 to 5 percent by weight, based on the total weight of the composition of a cationic derivative selected from an alkyl amine acetate, a chloride or bromide of alkyl dimethyl hydroxyethyl ammonium, or of dimethyl stearyl ammonium, of quaternary halide of gluconamide, a quaternary halide of mink oil, a quaternary derivative of fatty haloalkanoate of dialkylaminopropyl amide, a quaternary ammonium derivative of the fatty acids of lanolin, an alkyl pyridinium salt or an imidazoline derivative.