Computerized stitching including embroidering

[0001] This application is a Continuation-in-Part of U.S. patent application Ser. No. 10/838,664, filed May 3, 2004, now U.S. Pat. No. 6,983,192, which is a Continuation-In-Part of pending U.S. patent application Ser. No. 10/062,154, filed on Jan. 31, 2002, now U.S. Pat. No. 6,823,807, the entire disclosures of which are hereby incorporated herein by reference. This application is also related to patent application Ser. No. 10/834,626, filed on Apr. 28, 2004, now U.S. Pat. No. 6,871,605, which is a division of U.S. patent application Ser. No. 10/062,154, now U.S. Pat. No. 6,823,807.

[0002] The present invention relates to stitching machines, and more specifically, to computerized machines capable of stitching programmed designs into garments using multiple thread colors.

[0003] Stitching systems capable of stitching or embroidering patterns into garments or fabric using multiple colors are common in today's garment industry. In typical stitching machines, a first needle stitches a first color in a preset pattern. If the pattern requires several colors, a second needle stitches a second color in a preset pattern, with this process repeated for several colors until the complete pattern is stitched into the garment. Such stitching or embroidery machines are commonly controlled by a computer system. Typically, an operator downloads a pattern to be stitched to a computer system within the embroidery machine. Included with the pattern are several other parameters, including the size of the pattern to be stitched, and the size of the hoop which will hold the garment while it is being stitched.

[0004] Upon receiving the pattern and associated other information, the embroidery machine makes appropriate calculations to, among other things, verify the pattern will fit on the garment or fabric, and that the pattern will not overlap the hoop. After the pattern is downloaded, the computer system makes the appropriate calculations. When the operator has loaded the garment or fabric onto the embroidery machine and made all of the appropriate checks, the operator gives the embroidery machine a command to begin stitching, at which point, the machine begins stitching the pattern into the garment or fabric.

[0005] Typical embroidery machines include a sewing head, an X-Y assembly, and a hook and bobbin assembly. The sewing head is commonly a multi-needle head, containing several needles which are used to stitch different thread colors. The sewing head is commonly located on a carriage at the front of the embroidery machine and is movable on the carriage to locate a first needle in a stitching position above the hook and bobbin assembly to stitch a first thread color into the garment. When a second thread color needs to be stitched into the garment, the sewing head is moved on the carriage to locate a second needle in a stitching position above the hook and bobbin assembly to stitch the second thread color into the garment.

[0006] When performing stitching operations, the embroidery machine, as is common and well known in the industry, moves the needle containing an upper thread through the garment. There is typically a needle plate located beneath the garment which the needle projects through when it has moved through the garment. Beneath the needle plate is the hook and bobbin assembly. The hook rotates around a lower thread which is fed from the bobbin. The hook rotates to catch the upper thread, and carries the upper thread around the lower thread as the hook rotates. When the hook nears the completion of its revolution, the needle is pulling back through the needle plate and garment, and the upper thread disengages from the hook. When the needle pulls the rest of the way through the garment, the upper thread is pulled around the lower thread and becomes taught, thus securing, or locking, the stitch. The X-Y assembly then moves the garment to an appropriate position for the next stitch, and the process is repeated.

[0007] The X-Y assembly is secured to the embroidery machine and is adapted to be connected to a hoop which contains a garment to be stitched. The X-Y assembly contains an X and a Y positioning mechanism which moves the hoop in both the X and Y directions with respect to the embroidery machine. When stitching a pattern, the X-Y assembly moves the hoop in a preset pattern with respect to the stitching needle, and a pattern in thus stitched into the garment.

[0008] In such systems, mechanical apparatuses typically pull thread from a spool through a take-up lever and to the needle assembly. The thread is fed through the needle, which, as discussed above, moves in a reciprocating manner to move the needle through the garment and into the hook and bobbin assembly. As described above, when the needle pulls out of the garment, and the stitch is locked, there is tension in the thread which pulls the thread taught and locks the stitch. However, typical systems create more tension than is required to lock the stitch. This extra tension is the result of the mechanical apparatuses that pull the thread from the spool to the needle. Typical embroidery machines, as well as other stitching machines, route thread from the spool to a thread guide, to a take up lever, back through the thread guide, and to the needle. The take up lever is connected to the same mechanical apparatuses which move the needle, and moves up and down with the same frequency.

[0009] When the take up lever moves back up, thread is pulled from the hook and bobbin, resulting in the extra thread tension. This extra thread tension may cause the fabric of the garment being stitched to “bunch up.” That is, the tension in the thread will create additional tension in the stitches being sewn into the garment and, if the fabric of the garment is a relatively soft material, the stitch may pull the fabric together. In situations where this may happen, it is common to use a backing material to lend additional support, or stiffness, to the garment in order to avoid this bunching up. The backing material is placed on the side of the garment opposite the side that the pattern is stitched on. The increased amount of material required for the backing increases cost, compared to stitching a garment using no backing. Thus, it would be advantageous to reduce the need for backing material. Additionally, the use of backing material also increases the labor required to stitch a pattern into a garment, compared to stitching a garment with no backing. When using backing, an operator must obtain the backing material, and place it into the proper position with respect to the garment being stitched. Additionally, once the pattern is stitched, the backing material may need to be trimmed by an operator. Therefore, the reduction of the need for using backing material would also reduce labor costs related to stitching patterns.

[0010] In addition to necessitating the need for backing material as described above, the extra thread tension created by the mechanical apparatuses, which pull thread from the spools to the needle assemblies, may lead to thread breaks, which can interrupt the stitching process. If the embroidery machine has a single sewing head, the stitching operations must be stopped and the thread break corrected. If the embroidery machine has multiple stitching heads, and a thread breaks on one of the stitching heads, it may be more difficult to correct the thread break. This is due to the multiple stitching heads operating synchronously, stitching the same pattern into multiple garments at the same time. When a thread breaks, it typically takes a machine several stitches to detect that the break has occurred. If a thread breaks on a first stitching head, the remaining stitching heads will continue stitching the pattern until the first stitching head stops. Since it is common for embroidery machines with multiple sewing heads to have the sewing heads mechanically coupled, when such a thread break occurs, the remaining sewing heads will be “ahead” of the sewing head which had the thread break. Thus, when a break occurs in such a system, additional steps must be taken to “catch up” the sewing head which had the thread break. Thus, it would be advantageous to reduce the number of thread breaks and to reduce the necessity to back up all the heads in the event of a thread break.

[0011] Furthermore, in an embroidery system having multiple stitching heads which are mechanically coupled, a thread break on a single head, once detected, acts to stop stitching on all of the heads. For example, if a system has four stitching heads, and head number one has a thread break, all four heads will stop stitching when the thread break is detected. This results in the three stitching heads which do not have a thread break sitting idle until the thread break in head number one is corrected. Accordingly, it would be advantageous to have a system where a thread break in a single stitching head of a multiple stitching head system will not result in the remaining heads in the system being idle.

[0012] Additionally, in typical machines which employ mechanical apparatuses to pull thread from the spool, the amount of thread pulled from the spool for each stitch may not be consistent, due to geometrical variations which occur from stitch to stitch. This inconsistent amount of thread pulled from the spools results in differing thread tension from stitch to stitch, and may result in inconsistent sew-outs. Inconsistent sew-outs may result in a completed pattern that has less uniformity from stitch to stitch, and may thus reduce the aesthetic appeal of the stitched pattern. Therefore, it would also be beneficial to reduce thread tension and have just the right amount of thread in such a system in order to produce more consistent sew-outs to result in a consistent and visually appealing stitched pattern.

[0013] As mentioned above, embroidery systems may encounter thread breaks, where the upper thread being stitched from the spool and needle assembly may break. Additionally, a break may occur in the thread being used to lock the stitch using the bobbin and hook assembly, known as a lower thread break. Thread may break for a number of reasons, including tension in the sewing process, incorrect feeding into the system from the thread spool or bobbin, and binding in the mechanical apparatuses which pull the thread into the needle or hook assembly, to name a few. When performing stitching operations, it is beneficial to have knowledge of any thread breaks as quickly as possible, in order to discontinue the stitching of the pattern and repair the break and return the embroidery system to stitching operations.

[0014] Typical systems include sensors to perform the function of detecting thread breaks. Such systems commonly include a thread break monitor to detect upper thread breaks, and an underthread detector to detect breaks in the lower thread. The thread break monitor generally includes a mechanical assembly which detects movement in the upper thread. The thread break monitor is usually located at a position above the take up lever, and sends a signal to control electronics in the embroidery machine if there is no movement in the upper thread. When the control electronics receive a signal that the upper thread is not moving as expected, this indicates a problem with the sewing process such as a thread break, and the control electronics act to halt the stitching operations of the embroidery system. Likewise, the underthread detector is generally located in a position close to the hook and bobbin assembly, and includes a mechanical or optical apparatus to detect movement in the lower thread, and sends a signal to the control electronics in the event that the lower thread stops moving.

[0015] When the embroidery system halts stitching operations after a problem, such as a thread break, in the upper or lower thread, is detected, an operator may then repair the break and resume stitching operations. In such a system, it is beneficial to detect the thread break quickly in order to repair the break and resume operations with as little down time as possible. Such systems typically detect a break in the upper or lower thread within several stitch cycles of the break, with a typical number of stitches being five.

[0016] While current sensors for detecting thread breaks are adequate for detecting such breaks, they commonly have problems associated with them. In particular, underthread detectors can be problematic during operations of an embroidery system. As mentioned above, underthread detectors in typical embroidery systems are located in close proximity to the hook and bobbin assembly, and are mechanical or optical apparatuses which detect the break in the thread by sensing mechanical movement. Because of their location beneath the garment being stitched, it is common for debris to accumulate in or around the underthread detector. This may result in the underthread detector malfunctioning, and giving false readings of thread breaks or not detecting a thread break. In such a case, the underthread detector requires cleaning, or in certain cases, replacement. In addition to debris, lubricant from the mechanical apparatuses may also accumulate in and around the underthread detector, resulting in the sensor associated with the underthread detector malfunctioning, which can also result in the underthread detector having to be cleaned or replaced. Therefore, it would be advantageous to have a robust sensor which can detect breaks in the underthread with at least the same sensitivity as current underthread detectors, while also requiring less maintenance due to collected debris and lubricant in and around current underthread detectors.

[0017] In addition to the inadequacies of current underthread detectors, upper thread break sensors also have several problems commonly associated with them. One such problem is the location of the sensor. As mentioned above, upper thread break sensors are typically located above the take up lever on the embroidery system, and can often take several stitches to detect a thread break. Since it is advantageous to detect a thread break as quickly as possible, it would be advantageous to have a thread break detector which is closer to the needle, and can detect thread breaks relatively quickly.

[0018] Another problem occurs with respect to maintaining appropriate thread tension in garments that have thick seams. Where stitching operations such as embroidery are to be performed over thick seams, thread tension must typically be adjusted so that it is lower than optimal in areas of the garment that do not correspond to the seam, in order to prevent thread breaks or gathering with respect to stitches made across the seam.

[0019] Still another problem occurs when moving between elements of a design and/or during color changes. In particular, after a design element is completed and the needle needs to be moved to start another element or after stitching with one color thread is completed and stitching with a new color is to begin, the material or garment being stitched is moved relative to the needle or needles. If a trim operation is not completed successfully, this relative movement will cause the thread to be pulled and can result in a thread break or a needle break. However, automated and reliable detection of miss-trims has not been available.

[0020] Other anomalies that can occur during stitching operations include failures to hook the upper thread, fray breaks due to the hook snagging the upper thread, and failures to pull the upper thread through the material correctly. If such anomalies could be reliably detected during operation of a stitching machine or apparatus, the stitching apparatus could be controlled to perform actions intended to address the detected anomaly. However, the capability to reliably detect such anomalies and take corrective action automatically has not been available.

[0021] As mentioned above, when a needle moves the upper thread into the garment when stitching, the bobbin and hook assembly lock the stitch by looping the lower thread around the upper thread prior to the needle lifting out of the garment. In order to prevent the garment from lifting from the needle plate, and to more securely lock a stitch, a presser foot is lowered to the garment surface to secure the garment during the stitching. The presser foot helps ensure that the stitch is properly locked and the tension in the thread is consistent from stitch to stitch.

[0022] In order to perform optimally, a presser foot must contact the garment surface when the needle lifts out of the garment. If the presser foot does not contact the garment surface, the garment may lift from the needle plate when the needle lifts through the garment, thus creating the potential for inconsistent sew-outs. Alternatively, if the garment is made of a relatively thick fabric, the presser foot may strike the garment with a relatively high force, creating a relatively loud audible sound, and causing mechanical stress in the presser foot, reducing its life-time. Thus, it is important to properly adjust the height of the presser foot such that it contacts the garment surface, yet does not contact with a force high enough to create a loud audible sound and/or mechanical stress. The loud audible sound is not desirable because, among other reasons, it is typically preferred that embroidery machines operate with as little noise as possible. Low noise operation is desirable especially when several embroidery machines are located in the same room, because additional noise may result in difficulty for people around the machines hearing other people or audible alarms. Thus, it is advantageous to have an adjustable presser foot, allowing proper force to be applied to garments of different thicknesses during stitching, as well as reducing noise level resulting from operation of the machine.

[0023] In typical current day machines, the presser foot is adjustable by manually adjusting a mechanical linkage connecting the presser foot to the needle drive assembly. This adjustment is typically done by removing safety covering associated with the needle drive and making an adjustment to the mechanical linkage to adjust the presser foot height. The safety cover is then replaced, and the embroidery machine operated. The operator then observes the operation of the machine to verify the presser foot is properly adjusted. If the presser foot is not properly adjusted, the adjustment process is repeated until the presser foot height is correct. As can be seen, this can be a laborious and time consuming process. As a result, many times the presser foot is improperly adjusted, or not adjusted at all. The presser foot may be improperly adjusted because an operator may make a first adjustment, and not make any additional adjustments to further fine tune the presser foot height, due to the burden of the adjustment process. In certain cases, the presser foot may not be adjusted at all, due to the burden of the adjustment process. Therefore, it would be advantageous to have a presser foot which is easily adjustable and can be adjusted without removing safety covering from the machine. Furthermore, it would be advantageous to make presser foot adjustments while the machine is operating, thus allowing for fine tuning of the presser foot height without interrupting stitching operations of the machine.

[0024] As mentioned above, a garment is placed in a hoop or other apparatus in order to secure the garment to the embroidery machine and to properly move the garment beneath the stitching head in order to stitch a pattern into the garment. Additionally, as also mentioned above, hoops of varying size may be used, depending upon the pattern and the garment that is being stitched. When a garment is placed in this hoop and secured to the X-Y assembly of the embroidery machine, it is important to ensure that the needle will not hit the hoop. If the needle hits the hoop, it can damage the needle and result in the embroidery machine being inoperable and needing repair. This results in downtime for the machine, as well as the cost of the replacement parts and labor to install the replacement parts.

[0025] Additionally, in many situations, it is beneficial for an operator to visually verify the location at which a needle will penetrate the garment. For example, when a garment is initially placed onto an embroidery machine, the starting location of the pattern is set in order to ensure the pattern is stitched at the proper location on the garment. Such a situation can also arise when an applique is stitched into a pattern. When the applique is to be set on the garment being stitched, the location of the stitch is determined in order to verify that the applique will be properly secured to the garment. Also, in the event of a thread break, once the thread break is corrected, the machine must be placed in the position to resume stitching from the point of the thread break. Typically, machines can be backed up a certain number of stitches, and the location verified, and stitching operations continued.

[0026] In typical embroidery machines, the control system includes software which verifies that the needle will not contact the hoop. This software receives information regarding the hoop size, and compares the pattern to be stitched to the hoop size to verify that no stitching will occur at or beyond the edge of the hoop. However, occasionally the hoop size entered into the software is not correct or the position of the pattern relative to the hoop is offset. In such a case, if the hoop actually placed onto the embroidery machine is smaller than the hoop that the control system thinks is there or if the pattern is offset, the needle may contact the hoop and cause damage. Accordingly, it is common for an operator to visually verify that the needle will not contact the hoop. In typical current day machines, this is commonly done by the operator pulling a needle down from the needle case to a location just above the garment, without actually contacting the garment. The embroidery machine is then commanded to trace an outline of the pattern to be stitched, and the operator visually verifies that the needle will not hit the hoop at any point of the pattern.

[0027] In situations where an operator needs to verify the starting location of a stitch, a similar procedure is used. Typically, an operator will pull a needle down from the needle case to a point just above the garment to be stitched. With the needle in this position, the location of the garment is adjusted until the proper starting location is located beneath the needle. Once the proper starting location is located beneath the needle, the needle is pushed back into the needle case, and stitching operations are started.

[0028] While the above-mentioned procedures are useful in verifying that a needle will not hit a hoop, and the starting location of a stitch, they have several drawbacks. One such drawback for using such a procedure to verify that a needle will not hit the hoop is that often the needle is pulled down far enough that, if the pattern does overlap the hoop, the hoop will contact the needle during the tracing procedure described above. In such a situation, an operator either has to stop the tracing, or push the needle out of the way, to prevent the needle from being damaged by hitting the hoop. Thus, if an incorrect hoop is on the embroidery machine, a needle may still be damaged even using the visual verification described above. Also, if a needle is pulled down too far, the garment may be damaged. Additionally, there are safety concerns with the procedures described above. Namely, an operator may be injured in the process of pulling a needle down from the needle case, or pushing the needle back into the needle case. Accordingly, it would be advantageous to verify the needle will not hit the hoop, and to verify the starting location of a stitch without an operator having to physically pull a needle down from the needle case to a point close to the garment. Furthermore, it would be beneficial to reduce the possibility of a garment being damaged during tracing by a needle that is pulled down.

[0029] As mentioned above, if mass producing garments it is beneficial to be able to stitch the same pattern into multiple garments. Such a situation is common, for example, when stitching logos into clothing. In such a case, it is useful to have several stitching heads operating simultaneously in order to increase production of such garments. It is also useful to use as few operators in such operations as possible, to reduce labor costs associated with stitching the patterns into the garments. One common method for achieving both of these objectives is to have multiple stitching heads which operate simultaneously to stitch patterns into multiple garments. Such machines typically are controlled at a single location by an operator after loading garments into each stitching head location. Many of these machines have stitching heads which are mechanically coupled to one another. In such a case, all of the stitching heads have to be used, due to the mechanical coupling of the stitching heads.

[0030] Furthermore, as mentioned above, thread breaks often require the stoppage of all of the heads in a stitching machine. It would be beneficial to have a machine in which the stitching heads may operate independently, thus allowing any heads not having a thread break to continue stitching, yet still have a central control at which patterns may be selected and downloaded into multiple stitching heads at a common time.

[0031] Additionally, these type of machines generally have a fixed number of heads, and if additional capacity is desired, an entire new machine must be purchased, often at considerable expense. Thus, it would be advantageous to have a machine which is capable of adding stitching heads incrementally, thereby allowing incremental capacity increases without as significant of a capital expense. Furthermore, it would be advantageous to, in certain circumstances, allow for fewer than all of the stitching heads on such a machine to be used, thus allowing for the stitching of a single or very few garments on such a machine.

[0032] Accordingly, there is a need for a stitching machine which overcomes the foregoing drawbacks found in prior art machines and meets the aforementioned needs.

[0033] In accordance with embodiments of the present invention, the tension of a thread in a stitching machine or apparatus is monitored and controlled during the stitching process. More particularly, the tension in the thread is monitored during the stitching cycle. In response to the detection of an anomaly in the thread tension, remedial action is taken. The particular action taken is dependent upon the particular location within the stitching cycle at which the anomaly is detected, and/or the relationship between the anomaly and another feature in the tension profile. In accordance with further embodiments of the present invention, thread tension is monitored during operations outside of the stitching cycle, such as during thread changes or when moving between elements of a stitched design. In response to the detection of an anomaly in thread tension during such operations outside of the stitching cycle, remedial action is taken.

[0034] The remedial action taken by the stitching apparatus can include increasing the thread feed rate to increase the amount of thread fed during a stitching cycle or during a portion of a stitching cycle, in order to reduce thread tension. Alternatively, the thread feed rate can be decreased to decrease the amount of thread fed during a stitching cycle. Increasing or decreasing the thread feed rate or amount can be performed by issuing appropriate control signals to an active thread feeder from a controller. Remedial action can also include adjusting tension through changes to the thread feed rate in response to detecting that thread tension is outside of a predetermined range of thread tensions. The remedial action can additionally include slowing down the rate of stitching. In addition or alternatively, the remedial action can include reversing the stitching apparatus for at least a portion of a stitch. For anomalies detected outside of the normal stitching cycle, remedial action can include returning the needle used during a prior stitching operation to a location relative to the material being stitched at which a trim operation was to occur, and repeating the trim operation. Returning the needle to a location relative to the material being stitched at which a trim operation was to occur can include moving the needle relative to the material and/or moving the material relative to the needle.

[0035] In accordance with other embodiments of the present invention, a thread feeder apparatus or assembly is provided. The thread feeder assembly includes a driven roller having a polyurethane thread contacting surface, and a pinch roller having a grooved thread contacting surface. The polyurethane covered roller and the grooved pinch roller cooperate to grip an associated thread between them, to assist in the accurate control of the thread feed and tension.

[0036] Additional features and advantages of the present invention will become readily apparent from the following discussion, particularly when taken together with the accompanying drawings.

[0072] Referring to FIG. 1, a front perspective representation of one embodiment of the invention comprising a stitching apparatus is now described. More particularly, the stitching apparatus represented in FIG. 1 comprises an embroidery machine 100, although the present invention may also comprise stitching apparatuses other than embroidery machines, such as sewing machines. The embroidery machine 100 has a base assembly 104, an upper arm assembly 108 mounted to the base assembly 104, a lower arm assembly 112 mounted to the base assembly 104, and an X-Y drive assembly 116 mounted to the base assembly 104. Within the base assembly 104 is a main controller (not shown), which receives patterns to be stitched into a garment from a host controller 300, receives manual commands from a user interface 120, and controls stitching operations. The host controller 300 is a computer which allows a user to input, select, and download design patterns to the main controller. The host controller 300 may be any suitable computer for a user interface, including a Windows based PC, an Apple Macintosh type computer, a UNIX based computer, or any other similar computer capable of providing a user interface and input, selection, and download capabilities.

[0073] Mounted to the upper arm assembly 108 is the user interface 120, and a thread tree 124. The thread tree 124 includes spool attachments 128 for sixteen (16) spools of thread. The user interface 120 is a control interface which a user may use to manually operate the embroidery machine 100. A needle case 132 is also attached to the upper arm assembly 108, which has sixteen (16) needles 136. The needle case 132 is attached to a rail 140, and moves along the rail 140 to position a particular needle 136 in proper location to perform stitching operations. A thread guide plate 144 is mounted on the needle case 132. Each needle 136 in the needle case 132 has an associated take up lever 148, and a thread feeder assembly 152.

[0074] In operation, a hoop (not shown) is mounted to the X-Y drive assembly 116. Affixed to the hoop is a garment or fabric, into which a pattern is to be stitched. The X-Y assembly 116 operates to move the hoop beneath the needle 136 which is performing stitching operations. The needle 136 stitches the upper thread into the garment, with the stitches being locked into place using the lower thread in the hook and bobbin assembly, as described above. When referring to the upper thread, reference is to the thread which is being stitched into the garment, and when referring to the lower thread, or underthread, reference is to the thread which comes from the bobbin assembly and is used to lock the stitches.

[0075] Referring now to FIGS. 1-3, a thread feeder assembly 152 is now described in more detail. As illustrated in FIG. 2, the thread feeder assembly 152 for a particular needle 136 is positioned adjacent to a stepper motor 156, which drives the thread feeder assembly 152. The needle case 132 is moved on the rail 140 in order to place a particular needle 136 in a stitching position above the lower arm 112. Thus, when a particular color needs to be stitched, the needle 136 associated with that color is positioned such that the thread feeder assembly 152 associated with the needle 136 will be driven by the stepper motor 156. The stepper motor 156 drives a driving gear 160, which is engaged with a thread feed gear 164. The driving gear 160 is associated with the stepper motor 156, and does not move when the needle case 132 moves along the rail 140. The thread feed gear 164 is associated with the thread feeder assembly 152, and moves to engage the driving gear 160, and thus drive the thread feeder assembly 152.

[0076] In order to ensure that the thread feed gear 164 aligns properly with the driving gear 160 when the needle case 132 is moved relative to the stepper motor 156, a clicker 168 is used to engage the teeth of the thread feed gear 164. The clicker 168 is positioned next to a leaf spring 172. The end of the clicker 168 engages the thread feed gear 164 and settles into a gap between the teeth of the thread feed gear 164, resulting in the individual teeth on the thread feed gear 164 being in a preset, and known, position with respect to the needle case 132. The stepper motor 156 can then be adjusted such that the driving gear 160 is in a preset position when the needle case 132 is moved with respect to the upper arm assembly 108. In this way, the teeth on the thread feed gear 164 have minimal contact with the teeth of the driving gear 160 when the needle case 132 is moved to locate a different thread feeder assembly 152 adjacent to the stepper motor 156. Prior to driving the thread feeder assembly 152, an actuator 176 associated with the stepper motor 156 is actuated to move a top portion of the clicker 168. By moving the top portion of the clicker 168, the bottom portion of the clicker 168 does not contact the thread feed gear 164 when it is rotating, thus rotation of the thread feed gear 164 is not restricted by contact with the clicker 168, and the noise associated with operating the embroidery machine 100 is reduced compared to a situation where the clicker 168 would be in contact with the thread feed gear 164 when it is rotating.

[0077] The thread feed gear 164 engages a roller 180, which has a gear portion 184 and a flat portion 188, as can be seen in the exploded perspective illustration of FIG. 3. In one embodiment the flat portion 188 of the roller 180 is covered with a relatively high friction material, such as rubber. A pinch roller 192 engages the roller 180. In one embodiment, the pinch roller 192 is also covered with a relatively high friction coating, such as rubber, which engages in a frictional arrangement with the coating on the flat portion 188 of the roller 180, thus when the roller 180 rotates, the pinch roller 192 also rotates. The pinch roller 192 is rotatably mounted to a thread feeder arm 196 which is connected to a thread feeder base 200 at a pivot 204. The leaf spring 172 engages the thread feeder arm 196 and applies pressure to the pinch roller 192 against the roller 180. An upper thread 208, which is fed from a spool on the thread tree 124 is routed through a thread feeder eyelet 212, and between the pinch roller 192 and roller 180. When the stepper motor 156 is activated, the driving gear 160 rotates, resulting in a rotation in the thread feed gear 164, which rotates the roller 180 and associated pinch roller 192, causing the upper thread 208 to be pulled through the thread feeder eyelet 212 and to the take up lever 148. Finally, as can be seen in FIG. 3, a gear cover 216 is fitted over the area of the thread feeder assembly 152 leaving only the flat portion 188 of the roller 180 exposed through an opening in the gear cover 216. This helps prevent the upper thread 208 from becoming caught up in the thread feed assembly 152.

[0078] The amount of upper thread 208 fed through the thread feeder assembly 152 can be controlled by the activation of the stepper motor 156. By feeding a predetermined amount of upper thread 208 through the thread feeder assembly 152, tension in the upper thread 208 can be reduced and/or otherwise controlled, compared to a system which relies on mechanical movement of the needle and take up lever to pull the thread from a spool to the needle. In one embodiment, now described with reference to FIGS. 4 through 8, the amount of upper thread 208 fed by the thread feeder assembly 152 is determined according to a preset method.

[0079] With reference now to FIG. 4, an illustration of two stitches and associated thread length is now described. As is known in the art, the length of upper thread 208 needed for a stitch depends upon several factors. The length of the stitch, the angle between the prior stitch and the current stitch, and the thickness of the fabric being stitched are significant factors. In FIG. 4, the upper thread 208 is represented by a solid line, and the lower thread 220 is represented by a dashed line. A first stitch 224 and a second stitch 228 are illustrated in FIG. 4. The first stitch 224 has a nominal stitch length 229, and the second stitch 228 has a nominal stitch length 230. As described above, the lower thread 220 locks the stitch by connecting to a loop 232 in the upper thread 208. When the upper thread 208 penetrates the fabric 236, a hook engages the upper thread 208, and rotates the upper thread 208 around the lower thread 220, and then the needle 136 pulls the upper thread 208 back through the fabric 236, and the stitch is locked. In calculating total thread length to feed from the thread feeder assembly 152, the length of the loop 232 around the lower thread 220 must be factored into the total thread length. The loop thread length 240 for the second stitch 228 is determined by the length of a line bisecting the angle between the first stitch 224 and second stitch 228 that goes from the intersection of the first stitch 224 and second stitch 228 and a line between the ends of the two stitches. The total thread length for the second stitch 228 dispensed by the thread feeder assembly 152 is the sum of the nominal stitch length 230, the loop thread length 240, a material thickness factor, an appliqué layer thickness factor, a length of any required overlapping thread, an additional thread factor to compensate for any stitches that are crossed with the second stitch 228, and a user defined additional percentage.

[0080] Referring now to the block diagram illustration of FIG. 5, the electronics associated with the thread feeder are now described. In the embodiment of FIG. 5, the embroidery machine includes a host controller 300, a main controller 304, and a thread sensor controller 308. The host controller 300, in this embodiment, controls the design and stitching functions. The main controller 304 in this embodiment, communicates with the host controller 300, the thread sensor controller 308, and a thread feeder 312. The thread sensor controller 308 communicates with the main controller 304, and receives information from a thread sensor 316. The operation of the host controller 300, the main controller 304, and the thread sensor controller 308 will be described in more detail with reference to the flow chart illustrations of FIGS. 6-8.

[0081] Referring now to the flow chart illustration of FIG. 6, the thread feed preprocessing operation of the host controller 300 are now described. Initially, as noted by block 320, the host controller 300 receives a start command. Upon receiving the start command, the host controller 300 retrieves design data which is associated with the pattern to be stitched, as noted by block 324. The design data can come from a number of sources, including a disk drive, and a network connection, as will be described in more detail below. The host controller 300 gets the first stitch information from the design data, as noted by block 328. The host controller 300, as indicated by block 332, sets a variable (x), that is associated with the stitch angle. The host controller 300, according to block 336, sets a second variable (y), that is associated with the nominal stitch length. The host controller 300 calculates the loop thread length 240, which as described above is a function of the stitch angle and stitch length, as noted by block 340. The host controller 300 adds the loop thread length to stitch data, as noted by block 344.

[0082] The host controller 300, at block 348, determines if the stitch is the last stitch. If the stitch is not the last stitch, the host controller 300 retrieves data for the next stitch, as noted by block 352. The host controller 300 then repeats the operations associated with blocks 332 through 348. If, at block 348, the host controller 300 determines that the stitch is the last stitch, the host controller 300 then gets data for the first stitch, as noted by block 356. The host controller 300 then calculates the number of stitches crossed by the stitch, and assigns the number to a variable (n), as noted by block 360. The host controller 300, at block 364, sets the stitch length variable (y), to the nominal stitch length. The host controller 300 then calculates additional thread length (a) which is a function of stitch length and stitches crossed, as noted by block 368. The host controller 300, according to block 372, adds additional thread length to the existing thread feed length. The thread feed length, at this point, is the sum of the nominal thread length, the loop thread length, and the additional thread length.

[0083] The host controller 300, then determines if the current stitch is the last stitch, as indicated by block 376. If the stitch is not the last stitch, the host controller 300 retrieves the next stitch, as noted by block 380. The host controller 300 then repeats the operations associated with blocks 360 through 376 for the next stitch. If, at block 376, the host controller 300 determines that the stitch is the last stitch, the host controller 300 sends the stitch data to the main controller 304, as noted by block 384. After the stitch data has been sent to the main controller 304, the host controller 300 ends thread feed preprocessing operations, as indicated by block 388.

[0084] With reference now to FIG. 7, the operations of the main controller 304 when performing thread feed calculations will now be described. In this embodiment, the main controller initially starts thread feed calculations, as noted by block 392. The main controller 304, at block 396, receives stitch data from the host controller 300, which includes the thread feed length. After receiving stitch data, the main controller 304 retrieves data for the first stitch, as noted by block 400. The main controller 304, at block 404, sets the thread feed length to a variable (l). Next, according to block 408, the main controller 304 sets the additional thread variable (a) to add to thread length (l=l+a). The main controller 304, at block 412, adds an overlapping thread length (x) to the thread length (l=l+x). The fabric thickness (f), at block 416, is then added to the thread length by the main controller 304 (l=l+f). The main controller 304 then adds a length for an appliqué layer thickness (y) (l=l+y), as noted by block 420. It will be understood that the order of these operations may be modified or combined, with such modifications being well within the ability of one skilled in the art.

[0085] Next, at block 424, the main controller 304 retrieves thread tension data from the thread sensor controller 308. At block 428, the main controller 304 determines if there is a thread break. If the main controller 304 determines that there is a thread break, it stops the embroidery machine, as noted by block 432. The main controller 304 then waits for the start key to be depressed, as noted by block 436. The main controller 304 next, at block 440, retrieves information for the next stitch. The main controller 304 then repeats the operations associated with blocks 404 through 428. If, at block 428, the main controller 304 determines that there is not a thread break, the main controller 304 determines if the thread tension is too high, as noted by block 444. If the thread tension is too high, the main controller 304 increases the thread feed length, as noted by block 448. If the main controller determines that the thread tension is not too high, it makes a determination, at block 452, whether the thread tension is too low. If the thread tension is too low, the main controller decreases the thread feed length, as noted by block 456. If the main controller 304 at block 452 determines that the thread tension is not too low, and following either block 448 or block 456, where the main controller 304 adjusts the thread feed length, the main controller steps the thread feeder stepper motor, as noted by block 460. The main controller, at block 464, determines if the current stitch is the last stitch. If the stitch is not the last stitch, the main controller 304 proceeds to block 440, to get the next stitch, and repeats the operations described with respect to blocks 404 through 464. If the main controller determines that the current stitch is the last stitch, it ends the thread feed calculations operation, as noted by block 468.

[0086] With reference now to FIG. 8, the operation of the thread sensor controller 308 will now be described. In the embodiment illustrated in FIG. 8, the thread sensor controller 308 initially starts up, as noted by block 472. The thread sensor controller 308 enters an automatic reset routine, as indicated by block 476, during which electronics associated with the thread sensor are reset. The thread sensor controller 308, at block 480, initializes, during which appropriate registers are cleared and preset variables are stored in the appropriate registers. The thread sensor controller 308 then reads process parameters from the main controller 304, as noted by block 484. These process parameters include timing information and information on the current point in the stitch cycle. Next, according to block 488, the thread sensor controller 308 acquires and stores a thread tension profile from the thread sensor 316. The thread sensor 316 configuration will be described in more detail below. The thread sensor controller then determines if the stitch cycle is complete, as noted by block 492. If the stitch cycle is not complete, the thread sensor controller repeats the operations described above with respect to blocks 484 through 488. If the thread sensor controller 308 determines that the stitch cycle is complete, it then manipulates the tension profile, as indicated by block 496. When manipulating the tension profile, the thread sensor controller aligns the tension profile such that the timing of the tension profile matches the timing of an expected tension profile. The thread tension controller 308 also performs filtering and math operations which results in a modified tension profile which has a reduced noise level.

[0087] Next, at block 500, the thread sensor controller 308 analyzes the thread tension profile. When performing the analysis, the thread sensor controller compares a modified thread tension profile to an expected thread tension profile. The thread tension profile is obtained from a thread sensor mounted to the thread guide plate 144, and will be described in more detail below. Based on the differences between the expected and modified thread tension profiles, the thread sensor controller 308 can determine thread tension data. For example, based on an expected thread tension profile, the thread sensor controller can determine if thread tension is relatively high or low for a particular portion of the profile. This determination can then be used to identify if there is a break in the upper or lower thread, or if thread tension is too high or too low. Following the analysis of the thread tension profile, the thread sensor controller sends tension data to the main controller 304, as noted by block 504. The thread sensor controller 308 then repeats the operations associated with blocks 480 through 504.

[0088] With reference now to FIGS. 9 through 12, the thread tension detection hardware and associated circuitry are now described. FIG. 9 is a front perspective illustration of the front of the needle case 132 (with the cover removed) and the thread guide plate 144. FIG. 10 is a lower perspective illustration of the thread guide plate 144, thread guide tube or contact element 526, and a left thread sensor assembly 520 and a right thread sensor assembly 524. The thread guide plate 144 is mounted to the needle case 132 through two mounting tabs 528, located at either end of the thread guide plate 144. The mounting tabs 528 extend downward from the thread guide plate 144, and are connected to the thread guide plate 144 by a strip of metal, or other material. The left thread sensor assembly 520 and the right thread sensor assembly 524 are located near the ends of the thread guide plate 144, and are capable of detecting movement in the thread guide tube 518 relative to the thread guide plate 144. The thread guide plate 144 includes several guide holes 536, for routing the upper thread 208 to the needle assemblies 136.

[0089] As in typical embroidery machines, the upper thread 208 originates at a spool (not shown), is routed through the thread feeder assembly 152, to the inner portion of the thread guide plate 144, around the thread guide tube 526, up through the outer portion of the thread guide plate 144, to the take up lever 148, back through the inner portion of the thread guide plate 144, and to the needle 136.

[0090] When conducting stitching operations, upper thread 208 moves through the thread guide plate 144 and around the thread guide tube 526, and the tension in the upper thread 208 varies throughout the stitch, placing pressure on the thread guide tube 526. For example, when the needle 136 approaches its lowest point in the stitch cycle, the tension on the upper thread 208 is relatively constant. When the upper thread 208 is picked up by the hook in the hook and bobbin assembly, and looped around the lower thread, the needle 136 begins to lift, and the upper thread tension increases. When the needle 136 lifts from the fabric, the upper thread tension increases as the stitch is locked, and reaches a maximum approximately as the needle 136 and take up lever 148 reach their highest point. The upper thread tension then rapidly decreases as the needle 136 and take up lever 148 begin dropping for the next stitch. The tension in the upper thread 208 is translated to the thread guide tube 526. In the embodiment described, the left and right thread sensors 520, 524 are used to monitor this movement in the thread guide tube 526 relative to the thread guide plate 144.

[0091] In one embodiment, a piezoelectric sensor 544 is located in each thread sensor assembly 520, 524. With reference to FIG. 11, a cross sectional illustration of the thread guide plate 144 and left and right thread sensor assemblies 520, 524 is now discussed. The thread sensor assemblies 520, 524 are mounted to the thread guide plate 144 with two mounting bolts 540. During stitching operations, thread is pulled through the thread guide plate 144, and around the thread guide tube 526. As the thread moves around the thread guide tube 526 during a stitch, the thread guide tube 526 moves with respect to the thread sensor assemblies 520, 524. In the embodiment shown, a resilient material 546, such as a rubber ball, is placed between the upper portion of the thread sensor assembly 520, 524 and the thread guide tube 526, with the piezoelectric sensor 544 located between the lower portion of the thread sensor assembly 520, 524 and the thread guide tube 526. In this manner, the thread guide tube 526 is secured between the thread sensor assemblies 520, 524, and is able to have limited movement with respect to the thread guide plate 144, which can be sensed by the piezoelectric sensors 544. The signal from the piezoelectric sensors 544 is processed and sent to the thread sensor controller 308, as will be discussed in more detail below. Piezoelectric materials, which are well known, convert mechanical stress or strain into proportionate electrical energy. Conversely, these materials also expand and contract when voltages of opposite polarities are applied. In this embodiment, the piezoelectric sensors 544 are used to detect movement in the thread guide tube 526 with respect to the thread guide plate 144. The piezoelectric crystal is capable of detecting movement of the thread guide tube 526 when such movement is in the range of several microns. Thus, even a very small movement in the thread guide tube 526 created by the upper thread tension can be detected by the thread sensors 520, 524. However, the sensitivity of the thread sensors 520, 524 can also result in any movement associated with the embroidery machine 100 creating a signal, much of which is noise, which results from a number of sources, including vibration from motors within the machine 100, or vibrations from sources external to the machine 100.

[0092] Referring now to FIG. 12, a block diagram representation of the thread sensor 316 and thread sensor controller 308 of one embodiment of the present invention is now described. Mounted on the needle case 136, in a location adjacent to the thread guide plate 144, is an instrumentation circuit 550. The instrumentation circuit 550 receives the output of the left and right thread sensors 520, 524, amplifies and filters the signal, and transmits the amplified and filtered signal to a detection circuit 554, which communicates with the thread sensor controller 308, which communicates with the main controller 304 to send thread tension information and receive timing information. Collectively, the left and right thread sensors 520, 524, the instrumentation circuit 550, and the detection circuit 554, make up what is referred to as the thread sensor 316 as described above. The detection circuit 554, thread sensor controller 308, and main controller 304 are located within the base portion 104 of the embroidery machine 100. Within the instrumentation circuit 550 is a left sensor amplifier 558, a right sensor amplifier 562, a voltage combiner and amplifier 556, a Sallen-Key filter 560, and a differential driver 564. The output of the left thread sensor 520 is routed to the left sensor amplifier 558, and the output of the right thread sensor 524 is routed to the right sensor amplifier 562.

[0093] The left and right sensor amplifiers 558, 562, in one embodiment, are operational amplifiers, which amplify the received signal, and add a preset voltage offset to the signal. The amplified and offset signals are combined at the combiner/amplifier 556, which outputs a combined signal to a Sallen-Key filter 560, which in one embodiment has a Q of 0.707, and a corner frequency of about 80 kHz. The filtered output is then sent to a differential driver 564 which generates a differential output having a normal signal (V_o+) and an inverted signal (V_o−). The differential output is transmitted from the instrumentation circuitry 550 to the detection circuit 554 over a differential line 568, which is an electrical connection using two wires, one of which carries the normal signal (V_o+) and the other carries the inverted signal (V_o−). Within the detection circuit 554, is a differential receiver 572 which receives the differential output of the instrumentation circuitry 550. The differential receiver 572 subtracts the inverted signal (V_o−) from the normal signal (V_o+) to yield a signal proportional to the input to the differential driver 564. This subtraction is intended to cancel out any noise induced in the differential line 568, on the assumption that the same level of noise will have been induced in both wires of the differential line 568. In one embodiment, twisted pair wiring is used as the differential line 568 to help ensure that the same level of noise is induced in both wires. The output of the differential receiver 572 is routed to an analog to digital converter 576. In one embodiment, the analog to digital converter 576 is a ten (10) bit serial analog to digital converter. The output of the analog to digital converter 576 is then routed to the thread sensor controller 308. In one embodiment, the thread sensor controller 308 is a 16 bit microcontroller having a flash memory. The thread sensor controller 308 receives the output of the analog to digital converter 576, and manipulates and compares the binary string of the analog to digital converter 576 to a reference string which is set by software.

[0094] Depending upon the result of the comparison of the binary string to the reference string, the thread sensor controller 308 will send data to the main controller 304 characterizing the current thread tension profile. If the thread sensor controller 308 compares the binary string to the reference string and detects a break in the upper or lower thread, it will send an error to the main controller 304 indicating an upper or lower thread break. When making the comparison of the binary string to the reference string, the thread sensor controller 308 compares the signature of the strings. Alternatively, in one embodiment illustrated by the dashed lines in FIG. 12, the thread sensor controller 308 also has an analog input, and receives the output of the differential receiver 572 directly, with no analog to digital conversion. In this embodiment, the thread sensor controller 308 compares the analog input with a predefined voltage level for different portions of the stitch cycle, and generates a tension signal based on differences detected in the comparison. Timing information is received at the thread sensor controller 308 from the main controller 304, which the thread sensor controller 308 uses to compare the voltage level of the analog signal received from the differential receiver 572 to the predefined voltage.

[0095] Referring now to FIG. 13, the output of the differential receiver 572 is now described. FIG. 13 is a plot illustrating the voltage output of the differential receiver 572 during normal stitching operations with no thread breaks. This plot illustrates the amplified and filtered output of the analog detection sensor 550 and shows several stitch cycles. With reference now to one of the stitch cycles, it can be seen that the cycle has a distinct peak, and a distinct valley. The peak is where the thread is locked in the stitch by the lower thread, and the valley is where the needle has just moved through the top of the stitch cycle. It will be understood that the timing and height of the peaks and valleys will depend upon the embroidery machine parameters, such as, for example, the thread tension when the machine is operating, the number of stitches the machine stitches per minute, and the length of the stitch. The pattern for normal stitching (e.g., a reference or representative predetermined pattern that is indicative of usual or typical pattern stitching) taking such factors into account is used as the reference string in the thread sensor controller 308.

[0096] FIG. 14 illustrates the output of the differential receiver 572 when the upper thread breaks. As can be seen from the plot, the peaks and valleys are no longer present when the upper thread breaks. The thread sensor controller 308 compares this to the reference string, and generates a signal based on the difference between the reference string and the output of the differential receiver 572 which is sent to the main controller 304. In the event of a thread break, which results in a signal which has relatively small changes in thread tension, the thread sensor controller 308 sends an error signal to the main controller 304, indicating that there is an upper thread break.

[0097] FIG. 15 illustrates the output of the differential receiver in the event of a break in the lower thread. As can be seen from the plot, when the lower thread breaks, the magnitude of the peaks and valleys is reduced for the first one to three stitches, following which the peaks and valleys essentially disappear. This is a result of the stitches no longer being locked by the lower thread. The tension in the upper thread in such a case is reduced for a period, as a result of tension from the last stitch which was locked prior to the lower thread breaking. As more upper thread gets fed to the needle assembly, this tension is reduced as more stitches are attempted. The thread sensor controller 308 can compare the reduced height of the peaks to the reference string, and, if the peak disappears, it can generate an error signal indicating a break in the lower thread, and send the error to the main controller 304. Thus, based on the analysis of the thread tension profile, the thread sensor controller 308 is able to determine tension data, and upper or lower thread breaks.

[0098] Referring now to FIGS. 16 through 19, the construction and operation of the presser foot assembly 600 is now described. FIG. 16 illustrates a perspective view of the presser foot assembly 600, and FIG. 17 illustrates an exploded view of the presser foot assembly 600 in relation to the upper arm assembly 108. In one embodiment, the height of the presser foot 604 is adjusted by moving a height adjustment eccentric 608. The height adjustment eccentric 608 operates to move the bottom portion of a cam 612 towards or away from a reciprocator assembly 616. The cam 612 is pivotally mounted to the upper arm 108 by a bushing 620 and a bolt 624. The reciprocator assembly 616 is connected to a connecting rod 628 which connects to a crank arm 632, which is attached to an upper shaft 636. When the upper shaft 636 rotates the crank arm 632, the connecting rod 628 acts to move the reciprocator assembly 616 up and down about a reciprocator shaft guide 640. Attached to the reciprocator assembly 616 is a cam follower 644, which engages with the cam 612 at a first end 648, and engages the presser foot 604 at a second end 652. As the reciprocator assembly 616 reciprocates along the reciprocator shaft guide 640, the first end 648 of the cam follower 644 moves along the cam 612, which in turn moves the second end 652 of the cam follower 644, which in turn moves the presser foot 604 up and down along a presser foot shaft guide 656. Thus, as the cam 612 is adjusted inward or outward, the height of the presser foot 604 is changed. The height adjustment eccentric 608 can be adjusted as the embroidery machine is operating, thus enabling the height of the presser foot 604 to be adjusted and fine tuned to proper height while the embroidery machine is conducting stitching operations.

[0099] Referring now to FIGS. 18 and 19, a simplified illustration of the presser foot assembly 600 and its adjustment is now described. The illustrations of FIGS. 18 and 19 should be understood to be for the purpose of illustrating the concept of the above described height adjustment mechanism, which has a scale which is exaggerated for the purposes of a clear illustration. As can be seen in FIG. 18, when the upper shaft 636 and crank arm 632 are positioned such that the reciprocator assembly 616 is in its highest position, the cam follower 644 is in a position along the cam 612 where the second end 652 of the cam follower 644 is at its lowest position, and the presser foot 604 is thus in its lowest position. With the presser foot 604 in its lowest position, there is a first distance 660 between the presser foot 604 and the needle plate 664 located in the lower arm assembly 112. Referring now to FIG. 19, the height adjustment eccentric 608 is adjusted so as to move the cam 612 in an inward direction, closer to the reciprocator assembly 616. As a result, when the reciprocator assembly 616 is in its highest position, and the second end 652 of the cam follower 644 is in its lowest position, the presser foot 604 has a lowest position which results in a second distance 668 between the presser foot 604 and the needle plate 664.

[0100] Referring again to FIG. 17, the exploded view of one embodiment of the presser foot assembly 600 is further described. In this embodiment, the upper shaft 636 is inserted into the upper arm assembly 108 and is driven by a motor (not shown) located at the rear of the upper arm assembly 108. Attached to the end of the upper shaft 636 is a crank arm 632, which connects to the connecting rod 628. A bolt 672 connects the connecting rod 628 to the crank arm 632 such that rotation is allowed. The cam 612 is mounted to the upper arm assembly 108 using a bolt 624 and a bushing 620, such that the cam 612 can pivot around the bushing 620. The height adjustment eccentric 608 is mounted on the upper arm assembly 108 using a boss 676 and a bolt 680, such that the height adjustment eccentric 608 can rotate about the boss 676. As mentioned above, the reciprocator assembly 616 reciprocates on a reciprocator shaft guide 640, and the presser foot 604 moves along the presser foot shaft guide 656. Both the reciprocator shaft guide 640 and the presser foot shaft guide 656 are mounted to the upper arm assembly 108. The reciprocator assembly 616 is coupled to the reciprocator shaft guide 640 by a spacer 684, a ball bearing 688, and a clip 692. The presser foot 604 is coupled to the presser foot shaft guide 656, and a spring 696 is arranged around the presser foot shaft guide 656 such that a downward force is placed on the presser foot 604. A plastic bearing 698 is located at the top portion of the spring 696 to provide reduced friction between the top portion of the spring 696 and the portion of the upper arm assembly 108 which it contacts. Thus, a downward force is placed on the presser foot 604 such that when the reciprocator assembly 616 moves upward along the reciprocator shaft guide 640, causing the second end 652 of the cam follower 644 to drop, a force from the spring 696 is placed on the presser foot 604. Likewise, when the reciprocator assembly 616 moves downward along the reciprocator shaft guide 640, causing the second end 652 of the cam follower 644 to rise, the presser foot 604 will rise, compressing the spring 696.

[0101] As previously described, many times the stitching position of a needle needs to be verified. As discussed, this is necessary, for example, to verify that the needle will not strike the hoop at any time during stitching of a pattern, to verify the starting location of a stitch, or to verify the proper location of an appliqué. Referring now to FIG. 20, in one embodiment, the present invention provides a laser assembly 700, which is mounted, to the upper arm assembly 108. The laser assembly 700 is mounted such that the position of the laser light on the fabric 704 will correspond to the point at which the needle 136 will penetrate the fabric 704. Also, the laser assembly 700 is mounted in such a way that any laser light from the laser assembly 700 is not obstructed from the fabric 704, and is also preferably mounted such that hardware associated with the hoop assembly which holds the fabric 704 or garment does not block the laser light from hitting the fabric 704 at any point in the design. The embroidery machine 100 contains a pattern and hoop verification routine, in which the pattern and hoop size are input into the main processor portion of the machine. The main processor then performs a comparison to verify that when stitching the pattern, the needle will not strike the hoop.

[0102] In some instances, incorrect data may be entered into the embroidery machine 100, or an incorrect hoop may be placed on the embroidery machine 100. In these cases, even though the hoop verification routine is successful, the needle may still strike the hoop. In order to reduce these type of occurrences, in addition to the hoop verification routine, the laser within the laser assembly 700 may be activated, and the hoop is moved in a manner to trace the outline of the pattern to be stitched. An operator can then verify that the laser light does not contact the hoop at any point during the tracing routine. Once the operator has verified that the laser, and thus the needle 136, will not contact the hoop at any point of the pattern to be stitched, stitching operations can be started.

[0103] Additionally, the user interface 120 contains a switch 708, which can be used to manually activate the laser. The user interface 120 also contains a manual maneuvering lever 712, which can be used to adjust the X-Y position of the garment on the machine. With the laser activated, the starting position of a stitch can be located, and the garment adjusted beneath the laser light to properly set the starting position of the machine. This same technique can be used to properly position an appliqué on a garment, and to adjust the position of the garment for stitching of the appliqué. Thus, the pattern and starting location of the machine can be verified without the need to manually pull a needle down to a position close to the fabric to be stitched.

[0104] As described above, often it is advantageous to have multiple garments stitched simultaneously. In one embodiment, the present invention is capable of electronically coupling two or more separable, independently functional stitching machines, e.g., embroidery machines, in order to create a multi-head stitching machine. In this embodiment, as illustrated in FIG. 21, each embroidery machine 800 has a network connection 804, which connects the embroidery machine 800 to an ethernet hub 808. The ethernet hub 808 is connected to a controller 812, which communicates with each embroidery machine 800 through the ethernet hub 808. Also, optionally connected to the ethernet hub 808 is an embroidery network system (ENS) 816, and may, optionally, be connected to other embroidery machines 800. The controller 812 is used to download stitching designs to the individual embroidery machines 800, and also to verify that the embroidery machines 800 are properly operating and have correct software revisions.

[0105] In another embodiment, illustrated in FIG. 22, several clusters of embroidery machines 800 may be networked together. In this embodiment, several embroidery machines 800 are connected to an ethernet hub 824, which is connected to a controller 828. The controller 828 is in turn connected to a central hub 832. The central hub 832 is connected to an ENS controller 836, and, optionally, to other embroidery machines 820 referred to in one embodiment as embroidery machines tubular (EMT).

[0106] In one embodiment, a plurality of embroidery machines 800 is a member of a logical cluster 840. In one embodiment, each cluster 840 may have no more than thirty (30) machines, and there may be no more than six (6) clusters 840 on any one LAN segment. Embroidery machines 800 within a cluster 840 communicate with each other for the purpose of control and synchronization. When such control and synchronization messages are communicated, an embroidery machine 800 will communicate the message as a broadcast message on the LAN. Each communication has a cluster number in the header for the communication. This way, an embroidery machine 800 in another logical cluster 840 which receives the command can ignore the command, and machines within the cluster 840 can act upon the command. The controller 828 receives all broadcasted commands, and may act on them as required.

[0107] When a new design is required to be stitched into a plurality of garments or fabric, a user will access the controller 828 through a user interface. The user interface may be any suitable interface with which a user may input and/or select a design to be stitched using the embroidery machines connected to the controller 828. In one embodiment, the user interface is a PC host, which operates using a graphic user interface. The controller 828 receives the design to be stitched, and communicates the design to the embroidery machines connected to the controller 828.

[0108] In one embodiment, each device on the network includes an Ethernet connection, which is used for communication on the network. In one embodiment, the communication protocol used for the network is Internetwork Packet Exchange (IPX), developed by Novell, Inc, and which is well known in the art.

[0109] Each embroidery machine in a system is configured with a cluster number, a head number, and a master/slave flag. When used in a network such as this, each individual embroidery machine is considered to be a stitching head, and has an associated head number. There may be multiple clusters per network, and multiple heads per cluster. Each cluster has one master embroidery machine. When in operation, synchronization of multiple heads is maintained by protocol mechanisms, as will be described in further detail below. The embroidery machines in a cluster are not mechanically coupled to each other. Mechanical synchronization is achieved by having the master embroidery machine broadcast a stitch synchronization packet at regular intervals. This packet contains information related to the stitch count, which the slave embroidery machines use to verify synchronization with the master embroidery machine. If the master embroidery machine discontinues the broadcast of the stitch synchronization packet, all of the embroidery machines within the cluster will halt. In one embodiment, each slave embroidery machine is programmed to expect a stitch synchronization packet at regular predetermined intervals. If such a packet does not arrive within the predetermined interval, the machine will halt. It will be understood that several alternatives exist for insuring the master embroidery machine is still operating, such as, for example, a heartbeat signal sent from the master to the slaves.

[0110] In addition to the stitch synchronization packet broadcast by the master embroidery machine, each slave embroidery machine transmits a heartbeat packet to the master embroidery machine at regular predetermined intervals. If the master embroidery machine fails to receive a heartbeat packet from any of the slave embroidery machines within the predetermined interval, it will broadcast a stop command to all of the embroidery machines on the cluster.

[0111] At the start of a job, a job synchronization is broadcast from the master embroidery machine to the slave embroidery machine(s). This packet includes information regarding the stitching operations during the job, such as initial embroidery machine speed and color change sequence. This job synchronization is used to synchronize the initial operating parameters of each embroidery machine in the cluster. Once the machines begin stitching operations, synchronization is maintained using the above described synchronization packets sent by the master embroidery machine.

[0112] The master embroidery machine for a cluster is determined automatically by software running on each embroidery machine. As each embroidery machine comes online, a Find Master packet is broadcast over the network. If a valid response is received, the machine which broadcast the message will automatically configure itself to be a slave. A valid response, in one embodiment, is a response to the Find Master packet which matches the cluster number of the broadcasting machine. If a valid response is not received within a predetermined period of time, the embroidery machine which broadcast the message will configure itself to be a master embroidery machine. In one embodiment, if a master embroidery machine receives a packet from another embroidery machine which indicates that the other embroidery machine is a master, the receiving embroidery machine will reconfigure itself to be a slave embroidery machine. When an uninitialized embroidery machine comes online and attempts to find a master embroidery machine, it will be configured as a slave if a master embroidery machine is found. A more detailed operation of one embodiment for determining master and slave status of a head will be described below.

[0113] When a master embroidery machine receives a Find Master packet, the master embroidery machine verifies that the request is from the same cluster number, and if so, responds with a master acknowledgment packet, which includes a response to the Find and adds the slave embroidery machine to an internal list of slaves. The above description also works for single head use.

[0114] As can be seen, this allows additional embroidery machines to be added to an embroidery system with relative ease. Furthermore, embroidery machines may also be removed with relative ease. Thus, for example, if one embroidery machine in the system needs to be taken down for maintenance, it can simply be disconnected from the network, and the remainder of the embroidery machines may continue to be operated. When maintenance is finished on the embroidery machine which was disconnected from the network, it can be reconnected and included in the system again.

[0115] Referring now to FIGS. 23-25, the operation of the master and slave embroidery machines for one embodiment is now described. First, with reference to FIG. 23, the operation of heads during power up is described. Initially, indicated by block 900, head one is powered up. Upon being powered up, head one assumes master status, as indicated by block 904. Head one broadcasts a request for master message to all devices in the cluster, as noted by block 908. In this embodiment, a cluster number is assigned to the head by the controller, which is read by the head when it is powered up. This cluster number is used in the request for master message. Next, at block 912, head one determines if an “I Am Master” response message is received. If such a response is received, head one sets itself as a slave, as noted by block 916. In one embodiment, a head will wait a predetermined time to receive a response to the request for master message, after the expiration of which it will assume no other head is set as a master. Next, according to block 920, head two is powered up. Upon being powered up, head two broadcasts a request for master message to all devices in the cluster, as noted by block 924. Head one, upon receiving the request for master message, responds to the message with an “I Am Master” response, as indicated by block 928. Head one then adds head two to its internal list of slave heads, as noted by block 932. Head two, as noted by block 936, sets itself as a slave. In one embodiment, the controller communicates the number of heads in a cluster to the heads at power up. The master head stores this number, and prior to beginning stitching operations, verifies that the number of slave heads in the list of slave heads matches the number received from the controller. If the numbers do not match, the master head will return an error message to the controller.

[0116] Referring now to the flow chart illustration of FIG. 24, the operation of a slave head during stitching operations is described. In this embodiment, the slave receives a design from the host (controller) computer, as noted by block 940. Once the design is downloaded, the slave head waits for a start button to be depressed, as noted by block 944. The start button may be depressed on any head in the cluster. If the start button is depressed on a slave head, the slave head communicates the start command to the master head. The start command is received at the master head, as indicated by block 948. Alternatively, the slave head may broadcast a start command to all heads. Following block 948 the slave head receives a synchronization command from the master head, as noted by block 952. In one embodiment, the synchronization command includes information regarding the initial stitching speed, starting position for the design to be stitched, and stitch count. Once a synchronization command is received, the slave head verifies all of the information in the job synchronization command, and returns a synchronization status to the master head, as noted by block 956. Once the master head has received synchronization status from all of the slave heads which indicate that they are synchronized, it sends a start command which is received by the slave heads, as noted by block 960. At block 962, the slave head transmits a heartbeat message to the master head. The heartbeat runs at all times in order that the master head may monitor the system for any malfunctioning heads. In one embodiment, the slave head transmits a heartbeat message at predetermined intervals of 250 milliseconds. The slave head then begins stitching, as noted by block 964.

[0117] During stitching, the slave head monitors for a stitching error, as noted by block 968. In the event of a stitching error, the slave head stops stitching, according to block 972, and broadcasts a stop command to all of the devices in the cluster, as noted by block 976. The slave head, at block 980, monitors for a stop command received from another device in the cluster. If such a stop command is received, the slave head stops stitching, according to block 984, and broadcasts a stop command to all of the devices in the cluster, as noted by block 986. The slave head, at block 988, verifies that it has received a heartbeat message from the master head. In one embodiment, the slave head expects to receive such a message at predetermined intervals of 250 milliseconds. If a master head heartbeat is not received, the slave head stops stitching, as noted by block 992, and broadcasts a stop command to all of the devices in the cluster, as noted by block 996. If the slave head does receive a heartbeat message from the master head, it verifies, at block 1000, that it has received a synchronization message from the master head. If a synchronization message is not received, the slave head stops stitching and broadcasts a stop command, as noted by blocks 992 and 996. If the slave head does receive a synchronization message from the master head, it compares a stitch number that is transmitted with the synchronization message to the current stitch number of the slave head, as noted by block 1004. The slave head then determines whether the stitch numbers match, as noted by block 1008. If the stitch numbers do match, the slave head determines if it has reached the last stitch, as indicated by block 1012. If the stitch is the last stitch, the slave head stops stitching, as indicated by block 1016. If the stitch is not the last stitch, the slave head continues operations as described with respect to blocks 968 through 1012.

[0118] If at block 1008, the slave head determines that the stitch numbers do not match, it determines the amount of mismatch at block 1020. In this embodiment, the slave head must maintain a −3/+0 stitch difference with the master head. That is, the slave head must be no more than three stitches behind the master head, and no greater than zero stitches ahead of the master head. If the difference is within the predetermined amount of stitches, the slave head adjusts its stitching speed according to a predefined control scheme, as noted by block 1024. The stitching machine then performs the operation as described above with respect to blocks 1012, and the operations that followed. If at block 1020, the slave head determines that it is not within the predetermined number of stitches of the master head, it stops stitching, as indicated by block 1028, and broadcasts a stop command to all of the devices in the cluster, as noted by block 1032.

[0119] Referring now to the flow chart illustration of FIG. 25, the operation of a master head during stitching operations is now described. Initially, as noted by block 1036, the master head receives a design from the host (controller). The master head determines whether its start button has been depressed, as noted by block 1040. If the master head's start button is not depressed, the master head determines if it has received a start command from a slave head, at noted by block 1044. If no start command has been received, the master head continues the operations associated with blocks 1040-1044. Once the master head's start button is depressed, or the master head receives a start command from a slave head, the master head broadcasts a job synchronization command to all of the devices in the cluster, as noted by block 1048. The contents of the job synchronization command are as described above. The master head then waits for synchronization acknowledgment from each slave head, as noted by block 1052. In response to the job synchronization command, a slave head may send an error in response to the job synchronization command, which may indicate an error in the machine or an error in the downloaded design. When the master head receives each synchronization acknowledgment, it verifies that the acknowledgment is valid, or contains an error, and determines if a valid acknowledgment is received from each head, as noted by block 1056. If a valid acknowledgment is not received from each head, the master head sends a notification indicating the error to the host, as noted by block 1058. If the master head does receive a valid acknowledgment from each head, it broadcasts a heartbeat message to all of the devices in the cluster, as noted by block 1060. In one embodiment, a heartbeat message is sent every 250 milliseconds. At block 1062, the master head broadcasts a start command and begins stitching operations. During stitching operations, the master head monitors itself for stitching errors, as noted by block 1064. If there is a stitching error, the master head stops stitching, noted by block 1066, and broadcasts a stop command to all of the devices in the cluster, as noted by block 1068. The master head, at block 1072, determines if a stop command has been received from any device in the cluster. If the master head does receive a stop command, it stops stitching, as noted by block 1076, and broadcasts a stop command to all of the devices in the cluster, as noted by block 1078. The master head, at block 1080, broadcasts a synchronization message to all of the slave heads. In one embodiment, the synchronization message includes the current stitch count for the master head. The master head, at block 1084, verifies that each slave head is sending heartbeat messages periodically. If a slave head heartbeat is missing, the master head, at block 1088, stops stitching, and broadcasts a stop command to all of the devices in the cluster, as noted by block 1092. The master head determines if it has reached the last stitch in the design, as noted by block 1096. If the last stitch has not been completed, the master head repeats the operations associated with blocks 1064 through 1096. If the last stitch has been completed, the master head stops stitching, as noted by block 1100.

[0120] As described above, embroidery machines in a cluster are synchronized through communications between the embroidery machines in the cluster. This allows the ability to place two or more embroidery machines directly adjacent to one another with little risk of the hoops on the machines colliding. For example, a first embroidery machine and a second embroidery machine may be placed relatively close to one another. During stitching operations, if the first and second embroidery machines are not synchronized, the hoops moved by X-Y carriages on their respective machines may collide. That is, the hoop on the first embroidery machine may be in such a position that the far edge of the hoop is relatively close to the second embroidery machine. Likewise, the hoop on the second embroidery machine may be in such a position that the far edge of the hoop is relatively close to the first embroidery machine. If the embroidery machines are positioned relatively close to one another, such a situation results in collision of the two hoops, potentially causing damage to the embroidery machines. However, when the two embroidery machines are conducting the same operations substantially simultaneously as described above, they may be placed in close proximity to one another without a substantial risk of the hoops colliding. Accordingly, embroidery machines which employ the software synchronization as described above may be located closer to one another than non-synchronized machines, thus reducing the overall footprint of such a cluster of machines compared to the footprint of a non-synchronized cluster of machines.

[0121] In another embodiment, the present invention is capable of electronically coupling two or more separable, independently functional stitching machines, e.g., embroidery machines, in order to create a multi-head stitching machine in which the stitching machines may stitch designs independently of any other stitching machines within the system. In this embodiment, as illustrated in FIG. 26, a controller 1200 is connected to a number of stitching machines 1204, 1208, 1212, 1216, and 1220 through a hub 1224. Each embroidery machine 1204, 1208, 1212, 1216, and 1220 has a network connection 1228, 1232, 1236, 1240, and 1244, respectively, which may be used as a connection between the stitching machine and hub 1224. Other components may also be connected to the hub 1224, such as an embroidery network system (not shown) which may in turn be connected to other embroidery machines.

[0122] The controller 1200 is used for a number of purposes in both the control and operation of the individual embroidery machines 1204-1220. The controller 1200, in one embodiment, is used to configure individual embroidery machines as one or more clusters of embroidery machines, and to set the cluster(s) to operate synchronously or independently. For example, it may be desired that three embroidery machines stitch a particular design, while the remaining embroidery machines stitch a different design. In this embodiment, the controller 1200 may be used to define a first cluster which includes embroidery machines 1204, 1208, and 1212, and a second cluster which includes embroidery machines 1216 and 1220. In one embodiment, a controller 1200 may support up to thirty (30) machines, and up to thirty (30) clusters. The controller 1200 may also be used to adjust various settings on the individual embroidery machines 1204-1220, such as stitching speed, material thickness, thread color associated with each needle, and hoop size. The controller 1200 can also verify that the embroidery machines are properly operating during stitching operations, and have correct software revisions. In one embodiment, the controller includes one or more dongles to enable certain features, such as the number of available clusters. A dongle is a well known mechanism which may include a hardware key that plugs into a parallel or serial port and that a software application accesses for verification before continuing to run.

[0123] When configuring a system having multiple embroidery machines using controller 1200, several options are available. Referring now to FIG. 27, the operation of the controller when configuring the operation of the embroidery machines is now described for an embodiment of the present invention. Initially, at block 1300, the configuration process is started. At block 1304, the controller prompts a user to turn on all of the machines attached to the controller. The number of clusters available and the number of machines detected is displayed at block 1308. In one embodiment, the number of machines detected is determined as the number of machines communicating with the controller through the hub. As additional machines are turned on or off, the number of machines displayed will change to reflect the current number of machines which are on. In one embodiment, a user is prompted to verify the number of machines detected matches the number of machines which are turned on. In the event that the numbers do not match, corrective action may be taken. The number of clusters which are available may be determined based on a number of factors, such as hardware limitations of the controller and hub, software limits of the controller software, or limits based on certain features within the controller which are enabled or disabled.

[0124] In one embodiment, the controller includes one or more dongles to enable certain features, such as the number of available clusters. A dongle is a well known mechanism which may include a hardware key that plugs into a parallel or serial port and that a software application accesses for verification before continuing to run. In this embodiment, the number of clusters available is determined based upon the number and type of dongles detected by the controller. Several different types of dongles may be present, including a synchronized dongle which allows machines in one cluster to operate in a synchronized mode only, a flex dongle which allows machines in one cluster to operate in a synchronized or independent mode, and a flex-plus dongle which allows multiple clusters having machines which operate in a synchronized or independent mode. Thus, in this embodiment, a controller may, for example have three of the synchronized dongles, allowing that controller to have up to three clusters which operate in a synchronized mode. Similarly, a controller may have two flex dongles and one synchronized dongle, allowing that controller to have up to three clusters, one of which operates in a synchronized mode and two of which can be selected to operate in a synchronized or independent mode. A controller may also have one flex-plus dongle, which allows up to thirty clusters operating in a synchronized or independent mode. It will be understood that other hardware and/or software mechanisms may be used to enable or disable certain features. For example, different software may be used which supports various features, rather than common software which verifies enablement of features through a dongle.

[0125] Following the display of the number of machines detected and number of clusters available, a user assigns machines to a cluster, according to block 1312. At block 1316, it is determined if the serial numbers of the machines detected are stored in the controller's memory. The serial number of a machine is a unique identification which is associated with a network address by the controller. In the event that a machine serial number is not stored, the controller prompts the user to input any missing serial number(s), according to block 1320. Such a situation may occur when a new stitching machine is added to the system, or the first time the system is configured, for example. The controller, at block 1324 determines if there is more than one machine assigned to the cluster. If there is more than one machine assigned to the cluster, the controller determines if flex operation is available for the cluster, and if flex operation is available prompts the user to select a flex operation option, according to block 1328. Flex operation, as referred to herein, is operation where a pattern is selected for stitching on all of the embroidery machines in a cluster, which receive the pattern to stitch from the controller, and where stitching on the individual embroidery machines is done independently of other embroidery machines in the cluster. If flex operation is available, and selected by the user, the controller enables flex operation for the cluster, as noted at block 1332. In the event that the cluster has a single machine, and after it is determined whether the cluster will have flex operation, the controller, at block 1336, determines if there are additional machines which are not yet assigned to a cluster. In the event that there are additional machines, the controller continues to perform the operational steps associated with blocks 1312 through 1336 for additional machines and additional clusters. Following a determination at block 1336 that no additional machines are present which are not assigned to a cluster, the controller completes the configuration, as indicated at block 1340.

[0126] Once the system is configured and embroidery machines assigned to appropriate cluster(s), a number of options are available at the controller, including the download of stitching patterns to clusters of stitching machines. Referring now to FIG. 28, the operational steps for downloading a stitching pattern from the controller is now described for one embodiment. Initially, a cluster is selected for stitching a design, as indicated at block 1400. The cluster may be selected based on various considerations, including, for example, the number of machines in the cluster relative to the number of items into which the design is to be stitched, the status of the cluster as a flex cluster, and the available thread colors present on machines in a cluster. A design to be stitched is selected at block 1404. At block 1408, the design is downloaded to all of the machines in the cluster. The hoop size is selected at block 1416. The hoop size may be selected based upon the size of the design, and the items to be stitched. If the cluster is configured to operate in the flex mode, a different hoop size may be selected for different machines in the cluster, or the same hoop size may be selected for all of the machines. If the cluster is not a flex mode cluster, the same hoop size must be selected for each machine in the cluster. At block 1420, machine settings are adjusted. Similarly to the selection of the hoop size, if the cluster is configured as a flex mode cluster, the settings may be adjusted for an individual machine independently of the other machines in the cluster, or settings may be adjusted for all of the machines in the cluster at the same time. If the cluster is not a flex mode cluster, the settings are set the same for all machines in the cluster. Settings which may be adjusted include, for example, stitching speed, material thickness, and color sequence. Stitching speed is the rate, measured in stitches per minute, at which the stitching machine will stitch a pattern into the item being stitched. Material thickness, measured in points, is the thickness of the material contained in the item being stitched, and is used in one embodiment as one factor in the determination of the amount of thread to feed for each stitch. Color sequence is the thread color which is associated with a particular needle in a stitching machine. For example, a first needle may have a white color thread, and a second needle may have a black color thread. In one embodiment, the color sequence may be different for stitching machines in a flex cluster.

[0127] Following any adjustments to settings, the hoops are loaded onto the machines and centered, as indicated at block 1424. If the cluster is configured as a flex mode cluster, a hoop may optionally be loaded and centered on a single machine. At block 1428, the design is traced in the selected hoop. As mentioned above, the design is traced by activating a laser light which indicates the position at which the needle will penetrate the item being stitched. When the design is traced, the laser is activated and the hoop moved such that the perimeter of the design is traced out by the laser. An operator may observe the trace operation and verify that the laser light does not contact the hoop at any point of the perimeter of the design. The trace is completed for all machines, or, if the cluster is a flex cluster, the trace may also be completed on an individual machine. At block 1432, stitching operations begin. If the cluster has more than one stitching machine, and the cluster is enabled as a flex cluster, the individual machines within the cluster may be started independently of each other. If the cluster has more than one stitching machine, and the cluster is not enabled as a flex cluster, the individual machines within the cluster are started at the same time. At block 1436, the controller displays the status of stitching operations. This display includes the elapsed running time and time remaining to complete stitching of the pattern, the stitch count of completed stitches and the total number of stitches in the pattern, the X-Y position of the carriage, and the current speed of stitching measured in stitches per minute. The display, when flex mode is selected, is set to an individual stitching machine, and may be changed to display the status of other stitching machines within the cluster. If the cluster is not configured as a flex mode cluster, the status display indicates the status of all machines within the cluster, due to the machines operating synchronously.

[0128] Following the configuration of the system, including assigning stitching machines to be associated with a cluster of stitching machines, it may be desired to stitch a pattern using less than all of the stitching machines in a cluster. In one embodiment, alternatives for accomplishing this are to re-configure the system, or place one or more of the stitching machines in the cluster into sleep, or idle, mode. By placing a machine into sleep mode, less than all of the machines in a cluster may be used while not having to re-configure the cluster. In such a case, the cluster will operate with any machines in sleep mode idle during stitching operations. A stitching machine may also be put into sleep mode during stitching of a design. FIG. 29 illustrates the operational steps of one embodiment where a stitching machine is placed into sleep mode during stitching for a cluster not operating in flex mode. Initially, all of the machines in the cluster are stitching, as indicated at block 1500. One, or more of the stitching machines is placed into sleep mode, as noted at block 1504. At block 1508, the remaining machines continue stitching. Next, at block 1512, at least one machine which was placed into sleep mode is awakened. When this occurs, the remaining machines in the cluster which were stitching stop stitching operations, as indicated at block 1516. The sleep mode machine(s) then perform a thread trim operation and go to the same X-Y hoop position as the remaining machines, as noted by block 1520. At block 1524, all of the heads not in sleep mode begin stitching. In this manner, a machine which has a malfunction may be placed into sleep mode, and the malfunction repaired while remaining machines in the cluster continue stitching without having to reconfigure the cluster or completely stop stitching operations. At some later point, if the malfunction is repaired, the stitching machine may be awakened and continue stitching operations. An example of such a situation is when a four head cluster is stitching a pattern into items in a synchronized mode, and one head has a malfunction such as a broken needle. An operator may place the head into sleep mode and allow the remaining heads to continue stitching while the malfunction is repaired. Following the completion of the stitching by the remaining heads, they may be loaded with a second set of items to be stitched with the same pattern. The operator may monitor the stitching, and awaken the sleeping head near the point in the pattern where the sleeping head had the previous malfunction. At this point, the remaining heads stop stitching and the sleeping head performs a trim function and moves to the same X-Y hoop position as the remaining heads. All four heads then continue stitching in synchronized mode. Following the completion of stitching, all four of the items being stitched will have complete designs.

[0129] Referring now to FIG. 30, the operational steps for correcting an error or malfunction of another embodiment of the present invention is described. In this embodiment, a cluster of stitching machines operating in a synchronized mode encounters a stitching error or receives a stop command, as indicated at block 1600. The controller then determines if a thread break has occurred, as indicated at block 1604. If one of the stitching machines within a cluster encounters a thread break, that stitching machine will transmit a stop command, resulting in all of the stitching machines in a cluster stopping, and communicate an indication of the thread break to the controller. If at block 1604 the stitching error or stop command was not the result of a thread break, the controller, at block 1608, determines if a command to unlock the stitching heads is received. In this embodiment, individual stitching heads may be unlocked from synchronized operation with other heads in the cluster in order to correct errors or malfunctions. If a command to unlock heads has not been received at block 1608, the controller determines if a start sequence has been initiated, as indicated at block 1612. If a start sequence has not been initiated, the controller continues to block 1608. If a start sequence has been initiated at block 1612, the controller continues stitching operations with all of the heads in the cluster stitching synchronously, as indicated at block 1616.

[0130] If, at block 1608, it is determined that a command to unlock heads has been received, one or more of the stitching heads in the cluster may be manually backed up independently of the other heads. The stitching pattern, as is well known in the art, has an X-Y location associated with each stitch within the stitching pattern. As referred to herein, when a head is backed up, the hoop and the item being stitched are moved to the X-Y position of a previous stitch in the stitching pattern. Thus, a head may be backed up 50 stitches, which results in the hoop and item being stitched being moved to the X-Y position of the stitch which is 50 stitches less than the current stitch count of the cluster. When determining the amount of stitches to back up a stitching machine, it is determined where the stitching error occurred, and the machine is backed up to that point. For example, when a cluster is stitching synchronously, one machine has a thread break which, through some malfunction, is not detected by the thread break monitor. An operator may notice the thread break and stop stitching for the cluster. The operator would then proceed to manually back up the head with the thread break back to the point in the stitching pattern which is slightly before the point at which the thread break occurred, and correct the malfunction. Thus, when stitching is resumed for that head, there will be some overlap in the stitching pattern which helps ensure there are no missing stitches in the pattern.

[0131] At block 1620, it is determined if one or more of the heads has been manually adjusted. If none of the heads has been manually adjusted, the controller proceeds to perform the operations described with respect to block 1612. If one or more of the stitching heads has been manually adjusted, the controller determines if a start sequence has been initiated, as indicated by block 1624. If a start sequence has not been initiated, the controller continues to monitor for a start sequence. If a start sequence has been initiated at block 1624, the manually adjusted stitching head is stitched to the stitch count of the remaining machines in the cluster, as indicated at block 1628. In the event that more than one stitching head was manually adjusted, the stitching head which was backed up the most number of stitches is operated up to the stitch count of the stitching head having the next lowest stitch count, at which point both stitching heads are operated up to the stitch count of the remaining stitching machines in the cluster. If more than two stitching heads are manually adjusted, the system operates in a similar manner to result in all of the stitching heads in the cluster having the same stitch count. Once all of the stitching heads in the cluster have the same stitch count, stitching operations are continued for the entire cluster, as indicated at block 1616.

[0132] If, at block 1604, it is determined that there was a thread break on one of the stitching heads, the controller automatically unlocks the stitching heads, as indicated by block 1632. The stitching head having the thread break is automatically backed up ten (10) stitches, as indicated at block 1636, at which point the thread break may be corrected. In this embodiment, ten stitches is selected as the number of stitches to back up based on latency in the detection of the thread break and slowing the stitching heads to a stop. That is, once the thread break is detected and the heads stopped, a certain number of stitches will have been stitched on the remaining machines in the cluster. Backing up the head with the thread break ten stitches generally results in the head being at a point in the stitching pattern which is even to, or prior to, the point where the thread break occurred. Thus, when stitching is resumed, the head with the thread break will begin stitching at or before the point of the thread break, helping to ensure that there are no missed stitches in the stitching pattern. It will be understood that the number of stitches the stitching head with the thread break is backed up may be a different number than ten stitches, based on various factors. Furthermore, a stitching head with a thread break may not be automatically backed up at all, and manually adjusted by an operator when correcting the thread break.

[0133] At block 1640, it is determined if any stitching heads have been manually adjusted. At block 1644, it is determined if a start sequence has been initiated. If a start sequence has not been initiated, the controller waits for the start sequence. If a start sequence has been initiated at block 1644, the stitching head which was manually adjusted stitches up to the stitch count of the stitching head having the thread break, as indicated at block 1648. At block 1652, the head having the thread break and the head which was manually adjusted are stitched up to the stitch count of the remaining stitching heads in the cluster. Stitching operations are then continued for the cluster, as indicated at block 1616. In the event that the manually adjusted stitching head, following the manual adjustment, has a stitch count which is greater than that of the stitching head with the thread break, the stitching head with the thread break will operate up to the stitch count of the stitching head having the manual adjustment, at which point both stitching heads would be operated up to the stitch count of the remaining stitching heads in the cluster. Similarly, if more than one stitching head is manually adjusted, the stitching head having the lowest stitch count will be operated up to the stitch count of the stitching head having the next lowest stitch count, and so on, until all of the heads in the cluster have the same stitch count, as which point synchronized stitching is continued for the entire cluster.

[0134] If, at block 1640, it is determined that there were no stitching heads which were manually adjusted, it is determined, at block 1656, whether a start sequence has been initiated. If a start sequence has not been initiated, the operations described with respect to block 1640 are repeated. If it is determined at block 1656 that a start sequence has been initiated, the head having the thread break is operated up to the stitch count of the remaining heads in the cluster, as noted by block 1660. All of the stitching heads in the cluster then continue stitching operations, as indicated at block 1616.

[0135] When a cluster is configured in flex mode, in one embodiment, there are a number of commands, referred to as flex-mode sync commands, which will work on all of the heads in the flex cluster. Such a command may be issued at the controller, or at one of the heads in the flex cluster, and the command is carried out synchronously by all of the heads in the flex cluster. In one embodiment, three flex-mode sync commands are “start all,” “stop all” and “synchronize rack position.” Although three flex-mode sync commands are listed, it will be understood that additional commands could be added. Even though the machines are not synchronized in a flex configuration, flex-mode sync commands are a convenience to the operator. A “start all” command will work to start all heads in the flex cluster. Similarly, a “stop all” command will stop all heads in the cluster. The same function could be accomplished by pushing the stop button on each head individually, and the flex-mode sync command allows this to be done from one head.

[0136] The “synchronize rack position” command can be used when the machines are first set up for a job. Typically, in such a situation, the operator loads the design and traces it on a first head in the cluster. The rack on that on that head may be adjusted to make sure stitching starts in the correct position. Once this position is determined, the “synchronize rack position” command may be issued from the first head, resulting in all of the other heads in the cluster moving to the position of the first head.

[0137] With reference to FIG. 31, a graph of thread tension over time or a thread tension profile 3104 during stitching apparatus operations comprising normal stitching operations is illustrated. In particular, the thread tension trace or signal 3104 is representative of the tension in the upper thread over time. As described elsewhere herein, the thread tension signal 3104 can comprise the output of the differential receiver 572 of the thread sensor 316. Also illustrated in FIG. 31 is a timing window or reference signal 3108. During a normal stitch, the tension signal 3104 typically exhibits an initial peak 3112, followed by a main peak 3116. The initial peak 3112 corresponds to an increase in tension when the upper thread is hooked and wrapped around the bobbin. The main peak 3116 occurs when the upper thread is locked in the stitch. Two complete stitches 3120 and 3124, illustrating normal initial peaks 3112 followed by normal main peaks 3116 are shown as part of the tension profile 3104.

[0138] Anomalies in the tension profile 3104 can indicate problems that call for the application of remedial action. For example, if the energy in the upper thread as represented by an initial peak 3112 (i.e., the area within the initial peak 3112) is greater than the energy in the upper thread as represented by the tension profile 3104 during the time at which the main peak 3116 should occur (i.e., the area within the portion of the tension profile 3104 at the time the main peak 3116 should occur), it is an indication that the upper thread was not successfully hooked by the bobbin, or that the upper thread has fallen out of the needle. In accordance with embodiments of the present invention, the energy in the upper thread is determined by integrating the thread tension signal 3104 over the period of time at which the peak being analyzed occurs or is expected to occur. In accordance with further embodiments of the present invention, the area of a peak or the portion of the tension profile during a time period expected to correspond to a peak, is determined by taking the average of the tension values in the peak over time. The “peaks” referred to in connection with various thread tension profiles illustrated herein are inverted. However, as can be appreciated by one of skill in the art, the polarity of the thread tension signal is unimportant, as it is the amplitude of the signal relative to a baseline that is used to determine the tension or the energy in a thread at or within a period of time.

[0139] In response to an anomaly in a thread tension profile, embodiments of the present invention may reduce thread tension, slow down the stitching frequency, and/or reverse the stitching apparatus for a portion of a stitching cycle (e.g. for one-half of a stitching cycle). An example of an anomaly in a thread tension profile 3104 is shown by the anomalous peak 3128. In particular, anomalous peak 3128 is an example of an anomaly comprising the upper thread being snagged by the hook. As a result of the sharp spike in tension in the upper thread represented by anomalous peak 3128, corrective action can include slowing the stitching apparatus (i.e. the stitching frequency can be decreased) and/or increasing the thread feed rate or the amount of thread fed during the stitching cycle. Alternatively, corrective action can include stopping and reversing the stitching apparatus. As yet another alternative, the corrective action can comprise slowing down the stitching apparatus and increasing the amount of thread fed during the stitching cycle as compared to a normal stitching cycle, and then reversing the stitching cycle if it is determined that simply slowing the stitching apparatus and increasing the amount of thread fed did not correct the anomaly. The particular corrective action that is taken can depend on various factors, including selected stitching parameters and conditions, user selected stitching apparatus settings, the particular stitching apparatus model, or other factors.

[0140] In accordance with embodiments of the present invention, reducing thread tension can comprise feeding the upper thread at an increased rate or increasing the amount of thread fed during the affected stitching cycle. More particularly, embodiments of the present invention may reduce thread tension by increasing the feed rate of a thread or increasing the amount of thread fed during a stitching cycle by sending a signal from the main controller 304 increasing the feed rate of the thread feeder assembly 152 associated with that thread. Likewise, increasing the tension in a thread during stitching operations in accordance with embodiments of the present invention may comprise sending a signal from the main controller 304 to the thread feeder assembly 152 associated with the thread being stitched decreasing the feed rate of the thread or decreasing the amount of thread fed during a stitching cycle.

[0141] In addition, to the example anomalous peak 3128 shown in FIG. 31, other forms of anomalies detected during stitching operations can indicate a need to take corrective action. For example, a sharp spike in thread tension can indicate that the thread is not coming through the material being stitched correctly. In that situation, corrective action can include slowing down the stitching apparatus so that the needle 136 can punch though the material more deliberately. As another example, the absence of a spike where a spike is normally expected can comprise an anomaly that embodiments of the present invention respond to by taking corrective action. For instance, if there is no spike in the tension of the upper thread within a timing window 3108, which in the example of FIG. 31 comprises a take-up lever 148 signal window, a complete failure to hook the upper thread is indicated, provided an early spike in thread tension (e.g., spike 3128) is not detected. Corrective action may then include reducing the frequency of stitching (i.e. slowing the stitching apparatus) or reversing the stitching apparatus.

[0142] The timing window or reference signal 3108 serves as a reference to facilitate a determination as to whether an indicated energy level in the thread tension profile 3104 is abnormal for the corresponding point in the stitching cycle. Although illustrated as a trace 3108 in FIG. 31, it can be appreciated that windowing can be performed, for example by the thread sensor controller 308 or the main controller 304, by tracking the point or segment within an individual stitching cycle at or along which the tension or the energy in a thread is measured. As can be appreciated by one of skill in the art, the point or location within a stitching cycle may be expressed in terms of degrees, with, for example, zero degrees representing the beginning of one stitching cycle, 180 degrees representing the halfway point of the stitching cycle, and 360 representing the end of the stitching cycle and the beginning of the next stitching cycle (i.e., equivalent to zero degrees). Accordingly, a “time window” as used herein generally refers to a segment of time that occurs between two points in a stitching cycle, and can be expressed as a range of degrees.

[0143] With reference now to FIG. 32, a tension profile 3204 illustrating the tension in an upper thread over a period of time encompassing over one hundred stitches is illustrated. In general, the amount of tension in the upper thread varies somewhat over time. In accordance with embodiments of the present invention, the rate at which thread is supplied for a given stitching frequency (or the amount of thread per stitch), and therefore the tension of the thread, is adjusted in response to the measured thread tension. Accordingly, the tension of the thread can be maintained at appropriate levels. Furthermore, features of the material or garment being stitched, such as thick seams, can be traversed with a reduced risk of thread breaks due to increases in thread tension caused by such features. In addition, the tension in areas of the material or garment that do not correspond to such features can be kept higher than if the variable thread feed features of embodiments of the present invention were not available.

[0144] For example, between times t₁ and t₂ in FIG. 32, the measured thread tension experiences a rapid increase, and then gradually decreases. The rapid increase is an example of stitching across a thick seam, such as the seam that typically is present between panels of a baseball cap. The gradual decrease illustrates the response of the thread sensor controller 308 or the main controller 304, executing instructions implementing a control algorithm in accordance with embodiments of the present invention, that operates an associated thread feeder assembly 152 at an increased feed rate, in order to reduce thread tension by increasing the amount of thread fed for each stitch, in response to the detected increase in thread tension. The example profile 3204 in FIG. 32 also illustrates a dip in thread tension at about time t₂. This dip is the result of stitching returning to an area of the material or garment being stitched that is of normal thickness (e.g., after the seam or other feature causing the increased thread tension has been traversed). Following the dip at time t₂, the control algorithm operates the thread feeder assembly 152 for the thread being stitched at a decreased rate (i.e. the amount of thread per stitch is decreased). As can be appreciated by one of skill in the art, the adjustment to thread feed rate in response to changes in thread tension implemented by embodiments of the present invention need not occur instantaneously. In particular, stitching operations, such as sewing or embroidering, can be characterized as a relatively elastic process, particularly over a number of individual stitches. Therefore an increase in thread tension affecting one or a small number of stitches can be compensated for by increasing the thread feed rate such that the tension with respect to later stitches is reduced.

[0145] FIG. 32 also illustrates a potential effect of crossing a thick seam or other feature in material being stitched that causes a rapid rise in thread tension, if thread feed rate adjustment features in accordance with embodiments of the present invention are turned off or not available. In particular, at time t₃, the thread tension as represented by the thread tension profile 3204 can be seen to increase steadily, without increasing the thread feed rate. Eventually, the example thread tension increases until there is a break 3208. The break may be caused because the thread tension adjustment feature of embodiments of the present invention may be turned off, or the rate of increase in thread tension may be too great for the increased feed rate provided as a remedial action to compensate for the increase in tension fast enough to prevent the break. In response to detection of the break 3208, operation of the stitching machine can be halted, and an alarm signal can be generated to alert personnel to the thread break.

[0146] In FIG. 33, a thread tension profile 3304 taken during startup of a stitching machine and in particular during the start of stitching operations is illustrated. As illustrated, stitching may start out slowly, with the first 3308 second 3312 and third 3316 stitches widely spaced from one another. After the third stitch 3316, the stitching operation may be brought to a normal operating frequency. During startup, embodiments of the present invention look for a pulse at the time the upper thread should be hooked by the bobbin, which indicates that the upper thread has been successfully hooked by the lower thread bobbin. However, the thread break sensor feature is not activated during the first few stitches during startup, because during that period it may not operate reliably. In particular, a thread break may be indicated by a measured or detected thread tension at one or more points or segments within a stitching cycle that is less than some threshold amount, but that threshold tension may not necessarily be reached during the first several stitches of a sequence of stitches, before the stitching apparatus is brought to its normal stitching frequency. Therefore, according to embodiments of the present invention, the thread break sensor is activated after a number of stitches (e.g., 15), and after the stitching apparatus has reached its normal operating frequency.

[0147] With reference to FIG. 34, a thread tension profile 3404 is shown that illustrates a miss-trim. In particular, at time t₁, a stitching apparatus operation comprising a trim operation was performed. However, the thread tension profile 3404 features a peak 3408 at about time t₂, indicating that the upper thread was not successfully trimmed, and that the upper thread is being pulled. This can occur as the x-y drive assembly 116 is being moved, for example to start a new element of a design. This can also occur during a color change as the needle case 142 is being moved to put a needle with a different color thread than was being used prior to the attempted trim operation in a desired position relative to the material being stitched. In accordance with embodiments of the present invention, in response to the detection of a missed trim, the x-y drive assembly 116, is operated to return the material or garment being stitched to the location of the missed trim, and/or the needle case is moved back to the location it was in when the trim operation was originally attempted. The trim operation is then repeated (e.g. a thread cutter or trimmer may be activated). Accordingly, bent or broken needles, and/or misplaced strands of threads that can result from missed trims are avoided. After the trim operation is repeated, assuming the trim operation has been completed successfully, normal stitching operations can resume, as shown at time t₃.

[0148] The detection of a missed trim operation is an example of monitoring a thread tension profile during a stitching apparatus operation that is outside of normal stitching operations. In particular, time t₀ in FIG. 34 represents the end of a first series of stitching operations and the beginning of a trim operation, for example in connection with the completion of a first design element and moving the material being stitched to begin a second design element, and/or changing the color being stitched. Time t₃ represents the completion of the trim operation and movement of the material being stitched and/or a change in the color being stitched, and the beginning of a second set of stitching operations.

[0149] In general, as can be appreciated by one of skill in the art after consideration of the present disclosure, a stitching apparatus may be capable of performing a number of different stitching apparatus operations. For example, stitching operations, including sewing or embroidering, may be performed. As a further example, a stitching apparatus may perform move or color change operations in association with trim operations according to which the material being stitched is moved relative to a needle holding (or that in normal operation is holding) an associated thread. According to the particular stitching apparatus operation being performed, different thread tension control algorithms may be applied in order to determine whether the thread tension profile indicates that an anomalous condition exists.

[0150] With reference now to FIG. 35, aspects of the operation of a stitching apparatus in accordance with embodiments of the present invention in connection with the monitoring of a thread tension profile and adjusting a thread feed rate to control thread tension are illustrated. As can be appreciated by one of skill in the art from the description provided herein, the methods of operation described in connection with embodiments of the present invention may be implemented by executing suitable instructions on the main controller 304 and/or the thread sensor controller 308. It can further be appreciated that a controller 304 and/or 308 can comprise a general purpose programmable processor, a digital signal processor (DSP) or other device capable of executing instructions stored as firmware or software in the controller 304 and/or 308 and/or in memory associated with the controller 304 and/or 308. Initially, at step 3504, a design of a pattern to be stitched is received from a host controller 300 at the main controller 304. At step 3508, any user thread feed settings received from the host controller 300 are received at the main controller 304, and any altered user thread feed settings are updated in the main controller 304. A determination is made at step 3512 as to whether new settings have been received from the host controller 300. If new settings have been received, the user thread feed settings are updated (step 3516). After updating thread feed settings as necessary at step 3516, or after determining that no new settings have been received at step 3512, a determination is made as to whether sewing should be started (step 3520). If it is determined at step 3520 that sewing is not to be started, the process returns to check for new user settings at step 3512. Accordingly, embodiments of the present invention continuously check for new user settings before the start of sewing operations.

[0151] After it has been determined at step 3520 that sewing is to be started, a determination is made as to whether the automatic tension control features of embodiments of the present invention have been activated (step 3524). If the automatic tension features have not been activated, then “standard” thread feed settings are applied (step 3528).

[0152] If the automatic tension feature is determined to be on or selected at step 3524, the tension in the stitch being made is measured (step 3532). The thread feed setting is then adjusted to match (or better match) the requested tension setting (step 3536). In accordance with embodiments of the present invention, the adjustment to the thread feed setting to a higher tension or a lower tension is performed by determining the difference between the measured thread tension and the user requested tension. Furthermore, the rate at which the thread tension is changed can vary based on the difference between the measured thread tension and the requested thread tension, with a higher rate of change being applied where the difference is large, and a lower rate where the difference is relatively small.

[0153] In accordance with embodiments of the present invention, the rate at which the thread tension is changed is selected from a number of steps, with a step providing the maximum rate of change being applied where the difference between the measured thread tension and the selected thread tension is at least an amount corresponding to a threshold for applying the maximum rate of thread tension adjustment. A next rate of change, lower than the maximum rate of change can be applied if the difference between the measured thread tension and the maximum thread tension is between the threshold for applying the maximum rate of change and a next threshold that is lower. A minimum applied rate of change may be applied for any differences that are less than or equal to some threshold that is less than the other thresholds. Accordingly, it can be appreciated that rates of change can be varied according to the difference between the measured thread tension and the desired thread tension. In addition it can be appreciated that the rate can be varied between different discrete rates based on a determined level or categorization of the variance between the measured-thread tension and the desired thread tension. In accordance with other embodiments of the present invention, a continuously variable rate of adjustment can be applied. It can also be appreciated by one of skill in the art that the rates of change can be applied as proportional values or multipliers that are applied to the difference between the measured thread tension and the desired thread tension. The resulting value can be used to alter the feed rate of the thread by changing the speed or thread feed rate of the thread feed assembly 152 associated with the thread. As can further be appreciated by one of skill in the art, small deviations between a selected thread tension and a measured thread tension do not need to be corrected. Furthermore, control systems or schemes used to adjust tension in a thread to achieve or at least approach a desired thread tension can apply any control system methodology including full or partial proportional-integral-derivative (PID) control.

[0154] A determination may then be made as to whether an anomaly is detected during stitching (step 3540). As discussed above in connection with the example thread tension profiles, an anomaly may comprise a failure to hook the lower thread. Another example of an anomaly that may be detected at step 3540 is a thread break. If an anomaly is detected during stitching, remedial action is taken at step 3544. The remedial action may comprise adjusting the machine speed or thread feed rate depending on the nature of the anomaly. For example, if the upper thread has not been hooked by the bobbin, an alarm may be sounded to alert an operator, and the stitching apparatus can be slowed, reversed and/or stopped. As another example, if a thread break is detected in either the upper or lower thread, an alarm may be sounded to alert an operator, and stitching may be suspended until the operator has rethreaded the stitching apparatus as necessary, and cleared the fault to allow continued operation.

[0155] If an anomaly is not detected during stitching, user thread feed settings are received from the host and updated (step 3548). That is, any changes entered by the user during stitching can be used to update the user requested thread tension settings applied during stitching. After adjusting the thread tension to the standard feed settings at step 3528, taking remedial action in response to an anomaly detected during stitching at step 3544, or after receiving updated thread feed settings from the host at step 3548, a determination may be made as to whether new user settings are received, again to allow the stitching apparatus to respond to user entered changes in thread tension settings substantially continuously (step 3552). If new settings have been received, the user thread feed settings are updated (step 3556).

[0156] After updating the user thread feed settings at step 3556, or after determining that new settings have not been received at step 3552, a determination is made as to whether an anomaly has been detected during a color change, a move and/or a trim operation (step 3560). An anomaly during a color change move and/or trim operation appears as a spike or increase in thread tension while the x-y drive assembly 116 is moving the material being stitched relative to the needle, and/or while the needle case is being moved relative to the material being stitched in order to bring a different color thread than was previously being used into position for stitching options. An example of an anomaly during a color change, move or trim, detected as a peak 3408 in the thread tension while the pantagraph of the sewing apparatus is being moved, is illustrated in FIG. 34. If an anomaly is detected during a color change, move or trim operation at step 3560, remedial action is taken at step 3564. For example, in connection with a missed trim during a color change and/or during a move from one element of a design to another, the failed trim operation can be repeated by moving the garment or other material being stitched and/or the needle case such that the material being stitched and the needle used in the previous stitching operations are returned to the same relative location at which the trim operation was to occur, which reduces tension in the thread that was supposed to have been trimmed and puts that thread in position to be trimmed, and repeating the trim operation. Remedial action may also include alerting the operator to the condition.

[0157] If an anomaly is not detected during a color change, move or trim, for example because such operations are performed successfully, or because the sewing apparatus is performing stitching operations, or after taking remedial action to correct an anomaly detected during a color change, move or trim, a determination is made as to whether an instruction to stop the sewing apparatus has been received (step 3564). After the sewing apparatus has been stopped, the process may end. If a command to stop has not been received, the process may return to 3532.

[0158] With reference now to FIG. 36, a thread feeder assembly 152 in accordance with additional embodiments of the present invention is illustrated. In particular, the roller 180 has a gear portion 184 and a flat portion 188 that is covered with a relatively pliable surface material 190 such as a urethane material. In accordance with embodiments of the present invention, the pliable surface material 190 comprises an infinite molecular weight urethane, such as Vibrathane®, available from Uniroyal Chemical Group. The pinch roller 192 that engages the flat portion 188 of the roller 180 features grooves 194 that create a thread engaging surface 198 having a number of projections or teeth. In accordance with embodiments of the present invention, the grooves 194 are generally parallel to the axis of rotation 195 of the pinch roller 192. In an exemplary embodiment, the grooves 194 are relatively shallow (e.g., about 0.5 mm deep) and spaced about 1 mm apart. The urethane covered flat portion 188 of the roller 180 exhibits favorable wear characteristics, while cooperating with the thread engaging surface 198 of the pinch roller 192 to securely grip an associated thread in order to provide accurate control of the thread tension and thread feed rate.

[0159] It should be appreciated that other designs, systems or architectures could be utilized to implement the network of stitching machines that are able to substantially simultaneously stitch the same pattern. By way of example, the control involved may include a number of controllers or a single controller, such as where the functions of the controller are accomplished by the same controller or controllers that control the simultaneous stitching operations. Additionally, other stitching machines than the embroidery machines of FIG. 1 could be employed in the network to perform the same operations and achieve the same objectives. Similarly, with respect to the stitching apparatus of FIGS. 1-35, other designs or embodiments could be provided to implement and/or control the desired functions. Instead of a host controller, main controller and thread sensor controller, a control could be provided that has more or fewer than these three controllers. For example, all or some of the functions accomplished by the thread sensor controller could be done by the main controller. In another example, all necessary control and functions could be implemented by a single controller.

[0160] The foregoing discussion of the invention has been presented for purposes of illustration and description. Further, the description is not intended to limit the invention to the form disclosed herein. Consequently, variations and modifications commensurate with the above teachings, within the skill and knowledge of the relevant art, are within the scope of the present invention. The embodiments described hereinabove are further intended to explain the best modes presently known of practicing the inventions and to enable others skilled in the art to utilize the inventions in such, or in other embodiments, and with the various modifications required by their particular application or uses of the invention. It is intended that the appended claims be construed to include alternative embodiments to the extent permitted by the prior art.